tmcafe

The other day I greased the U-Joint (only the two points toward the rear; I could touch and see the forward third one in the mirror, but I'll need a hose/45˚ fitting to get to it). I used GreenGrease in a small cartridge. I kept pumping the gun until I saw the green grease driving out whatever was left from the factory brownish grease. The green grease kept leaking slowly through the narrow openings. I wiped off some, than wrapped the U-joint cover with duct tape (a tip from Tracy Martin) to prevent the grease from flinging off. When I got home later after I rode the bike several times during the day, I removed the tape, but the grease seems to still keep oozing a little. I don't mind this if it's normal, but I wonder if I pumped too much grease, or if the grease should leak like it does. Maybe it was only my impression, but it seem to have leaked a little bit even further down about midway where the two portions of the shaft are joint--where the two yellow lines align. Comments appreciated.

Sorry if this has been covered before. Tonight I noticed the fuel light switched on after starting the engine and continued staying on. Shortly after I took off, the fuel light switched off. I've seen this pattern at least a couple times tonight, though I'm not sure if every time it happened the same (there may have been a few times when the fuel light didn't go on). Is this a common problem, and if so, are there fixes? Thanks in advance.

Thanks Woody, that's exactly what I did, and Greg had everything, except for the sidestand that should be in next week. Cheers, tm

Thanks, I've heard only good things about MPH. I may still check with them to see what they have that I can't find. In the meantime I found out that I can get a nearly new muffler, billet alu fin guards, plug wires and sidestand (this last one next week) from Moto in Seattle--that's where I got the bike and they're great, and within short distance, at least by the West standards. I just didn't know what parts they have since there's no catalogue on their site.

Thanks Richard. Actually since I got the bike I put a search favorite on ebay in case something shows up for V11 (luggage racks, tankbags, etc). Not much so far. I could go for the aftermarket guards and plug wires if they're better. Just checked MPH to see what they have in stock. I'll have to email them.

Encouraged by previous posts, like dlaing's How to Crash, or such titles like "tip over valve", I thought I'd share the latest on my bike... After having done my first oil change with lots of TLC and good info gathered here... So, before I ask for more info: this morning I was leaving a bit in a rush (as usual), and after a block or two I turned left on a one-way. Green light, no cross traffic, I rolled a bit more and leaned accordingly--enough for my cold tires (like I didn't know it was freezing cold, probably around 30) help me low-side very elegantly. No traffic fortunately, and a nice guy nearby came to help me pick up it up while complimenting the bike/brand. Results, from top to bottom: ground fin guard (it works!); partially ground & torn rubber plug cap (fin guard could work better!); ground side stand joint; dinted, scuffed muffler and slightly bent attachment plate (for pipe). Oh, I forgot (although I'm not sure if it's from top down or the other way around): me, feeling like .... insert favorite word for known feeling. Now where in the world can I find: - fin guard - orange/red plug cap/cord - sidestand - muffler Okay, I can liquid-tape the rubber plug cap, since it's got a tear/opening. And the sidestand may wait, as well as the muffler. But MG Cycle where I ordered a thermo dipstick (mine is plastic ) didn't have the fin guard... welcome to Guzziland. Tips? (no, I don't like the word!; "suggestions" sounds better). Thanks!

Great picture. I refilled with 4 qts as well. Very curious about your Roper plate test results on the pressure gauge.

Aha! Good to know. You may have posted something about this here on v11lemans but I don't remember for sure. Although I confess I don't quite understand the explanation (I'd probably need pictures ), this may be one of the reasons to avoid some filters if there are other choices within the same price range. I just looked up the specs for the Napa filter. By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8-11 http://www.napafilters.com/filterlookup/Pa...asp?Part=PS1215 Couldn't find that for Wally's ST3614.

Thanks. It looks like the picture on the box of the Wally's ST3614. Did you say the ST was actually made by Champion? This means that the UFI, which is bigger than the other filters I found, is overkill. Also this point is discussed by Dave R. in Guzziology: the larger filter combined with longer OCIs doesn't make any sense. Then the only advantage of the larger size is that it's easier to handle. Not if you're spacey enough to forget and screw it back in before you're done. Even worse is when you do remember something (like the tires being cold when you start out in something like 30F) but don't act on the thought until it's too late. More about this later...

No expertise here, just did a lot of homework as a newbie. There's plenty of info on this site as well as others (you may even check "bob is the oil guy" forum). As far as the factory recommendation, I understand it is most likely a convenient reprint from the manual for the Californias with PI engine (hydraulic valves), which do require 5W40. Greg at MI suspects they did just a copy an paste job since they didn't even change headers. Ryland also suspects heavier oil may build pressure faster (see previous posts). For now since it's nearly winter, I decided to use a cheap Valvo for motorcycles 10W40. Later I may switch to Rotella 15W40 which has a very good track record, and it's cheap easy to find--got mine at Wally's, and/or 20W50 synthetic.

I just changed the oil yesterday (first service at a little over 700 mi) and saw what the UFI filter is like. So far I found the Napa filter and the ST from Wally's. Looking at the UFI and the two other ones, I didn't see any difference in favor of the substitutes as far as the gasket. In fact, the UFI had a much taller gasket, but it was inserted in the groove. But all these filters' gaskets stick off the rim about the same height. I'm still looking for the Purolator, which has a better gasket. As far as the construction, I haven't seen the inside of any, although there's a website where some of them may be shown cut open. One of the guys at Napa warned me about the construction of Purolator filters in general, but hard to put much basis on that. I'd be curious to see what's inside of any of the filters that have been used. For now, given that the ST, which I put in this time, doesn't seem any better, I tightened it more than 1 turn past the contact point. Another thing about UFI (which can be had for about $8 from MG Cycles--of course the ST is less than $3): it is much taller than the Napa and ST, so it sticks out more through the hole. Whether that means it has more capacity, or it's better, I don't know. It may be easier to handle than the shorter ones. Also another thing: my dipstick is very close to the filter. I wonder if any of that, more so with a plastic dipstick , like mine, may not be a contributing factor, through some kind of strange vibration, to the dreaded loosening of the filters. Also you may be better off using a short filter wrench. The tall/deep metal one I got from Napa, which fits both the ST and the Napa filter, and did a reasonable impersonation of a wrench to loosen the UFI filter, actually got trapped in the dipstick because it was too tall. I got the 14-flute wrench for the Purolator too, hoping that I'll find the filter soon. Another thing I'm wondering about is the filter's anti-drainback valve pressure. Somebody may be able to explain what the difference may be.

Sorry about the confusion... this also means there's hope . 350 at least sounds better than 330.

Thanks Greg. This means that the 330 watts that Ryland measured is what all the other V11s crank. Not that it's a huge difference, but it's the wrong way . It would have sucked less with 350...

I wonder if it's a different setup for some VINs model year 2004. Greg would likely clear this point for us. As an aside, I looked up the power use for Gerbings vs. Widder gloves, and the Widders still do better, 20W only vs. 27w for the Gerbings. Widder seems the way to go--but you already knew that

Thanks! 1. Are those 330 watts the actual power of the alternator measured by you? (my owner's and shop manual state 350w at 5,000 rpm) My manual shows 330. Hmm, strange, I wonder what's different: manuals, bikes, or both? 2. Where/what page does the shop manual mention how much power the alternator makes at different revs? Section P, page 34. I'll look up.

Thanks to Ryland and the contributors to this thread. I've been out to warmer places for some days, yet the issue of heated gear is important for those of who may ride for hours in temps below freezing. A few questions/comments: 1. Are those 330 watts the actual power of the alternator measured by you? (my owner's and shop manual state 350w at 5,000 rpm) 2. Where/what page does the shop manual mention how much power the alternator makes at different revs? 3. From Ryland's post, it results that at most rpm's the bike can take the vest and gloves. In this case, the issue starts looking better, since the chill factor is related not only to outside temperature, but also to speed. If one rides at city traffic speeds, there's hardly any need for heated gear even in very cold weather. The need arises with cold AND speed. But speed may also be to revs. If one chooses to ride in the next lower gear, the revs seem to be plenty for gloves and vest. 4. As far as the heated socks, has anybody ever tried the BMW battery-powered heated insoles? I haven't but I'm curious. The battery can be recharged, and the insoles can be cut to size. Warnung: S

Thanks for the info! I understand that the straps mounting system are not ideal, as opposed to a "base", magnetic or "strapped". In any case, tank bags will always mark the surface on which they sit, unless it's protected. Still thinking of the Famsa bag, unless expanded it's too big. If the universal base fits my Dakar, I could get the big one, with the choice of two parts, total 38 liters, and switch it between bikes (it has a dedicated base for the V11 and perhaps the universal base would fit the Dakar faux tank. I always hate when I have to transfer my stuff from a bag into another. That would take care of it.

Good thread and great to see the testing. I'm surprised, though, about the indicated rpm in your shop manual. In all the info I've read so far, from owner's manual to shop manual, it's 350W at 5,000 rpm. Here's the info as copied from the shop manual (in CD form), page 4: ALTERNATOR GENERATOR Installed on the front part of the crankshaft. Output capacity: 350 W at 5000 r.p.m/min. (14 V - 25 A)

Not there yet, but trying to catch up

Yes, that's a reason I'd use a more expensive oil, rather than for some faith/hype-based peace of mind. Also you can probably tell what's really worth and what's just oil mfr's claim/snake oil. Now, the mistake in the owner's and shop manuals is that they require 5W-40 as for the PI engines, instead of 15W-50, or 15-40, or 10W-50? If that's the case, how can the lower winter rating affect the V11 engine if it doesn't hurt the clutch and transmission? Also, the manual doesn't say a word about SG rating, but from what I've read, including Guzziology, that is more important than the grade (and you confirm it too by using it in your bike). Now is the blend of dyno and synthetic required for an optimal lubricant for the engine, or is it just for cost-cutting purposes? (full synthetic would cost more). And what is the difference between the true synthetic (polyolester), and the hydro-cracked mineral oil? Does the true synth break down slower than the "fake" when run in the engine? Less deposits? And do the manufacturers have to state clearly on the containers what's true synthetic and what's hydro-cracked? (in other words, how can we tell which is which?) Sorry to ask so many questions, but given your experience, you know what difference the oil quality makes. So as far as the oil you recommend for the V11 engines, should it be a 15W-50, ideally synthetic or at least blend of real synthetic, and SG rated? And is it less expensive to mix your own from dyno and synth, than use a ready-made blend? Since in most cases oil in a bike gets changed at 3k, is Guzzi's recommendation to change oil at 6k based on using very good oil? In other words, one can use an okay oil and change it more often, or one of the best, and push the change intervals? Is it more important to change the oil often rather than put in a high-end oil that won't get changed as often? What can make a grease incompatible with the other? (is it the kind of soap, as in lithium vs. something else?). As far as I've seen, most greases have a lithium compound. Dave at MI made me a copy of the V11 Sport shop manual on a CD. The Ballabio/Cafe Sport supplement is just a thin tiny booklet of a few pages that gives a brief description of the

So when you said you ran both gloves and vest cruising at 3k rpm, were both, or either, on-and-off, or on a heat controller? That could be a solution, but during my long rides in below-freezing temps (as in 5-10 hours stopping only for gas) I kept the vest on much of the time, and that with a sweater on top of it, and the jacket with liner. I also have only an on-off switch on the vest. Thanks.

Thanks, that's for sure a good one. Is this where the torque should be higher than in the manual?

Thanks belfastguzzi. I'm sure I'll find good info here and even the

Thanks Greg! Hmm... some of those nuts and bolts on the general list of torques are pretty damn hard to get to... The shop manual I got from Dave is the general V11 Sport one. I didn't get the Ballabio/Cafe Sport supplement. The bike came with a very thin supplementary booklet on Ballabio and Cafe Sport. It only talks about adjusting the

Thanks Kevin! Greg too mentions the PowerPunch additive, and if a lifetime supply costs so little, so much better. I also saw the 85W-140 grade mentioned somewhere as the one we need for our final drive, but I'd rather stay with the current recommendations. You too confirm the mesh screen is always clean. At least one thing not to worry about more than once a year or so. The Guzzi dealer here in Boise is big on BMW, which is good since I have one of those too. They also do Triumph, Aprilia, Piaggio and Moto Guzzi. They're known to be good and also they're not a "boutique" store. Overall I've had a good experience with them, including warranties, so I trust them. However sometime this year their service manager--the most competent and trained guy, and the one who worked on Italian and Brit bikes, left to open his own business, and another long-time mechanic retired, so now they're re-training somebody, but it may take some time until whoever replaces them reaches the same level of competence.