gstallons

If my memory serves me correctly , Pirsig was turned down by just about every publisher on the planet .

My bike has NEVER started that quick !

The most righteous M/G ever .

It will get TLC !

I would let this one go & let this ripen on the vine through the winter . If you want it then see what the price is /does ?

Fuel pumps have important specs. beside inlet & outlet o.d. , housing diameter and length . Fuel pressure and volume are critical if you want correct engine performance .

1-330-738-39 four four . Since Joe passed away , it is difficult to reach Ida Mae . You will have to call a few Xs to reach her . Some of the best people to live and have lived on this planet .

This will be a temp. fix. The heater hose will not last long. It is not designed to work with petroleum products . When you get to a good break , get another hose and d-i-y.

remove the valve cover and see what is going on .....

Yes on the Roper plate & I second the motion on the needles . It does look too good. Offering a bike with any broken levers or pedals is not the best way to sell something . I would talk to all the previous owners. p.s. it does look good !

I do my best to buy alchohol free gasoline for all my air cooled units . Since regular fuel has the lifespan of grocery store milk , I can't afford the damage of something setting through the winter and not running properly or running at all . There are websites you can search to find alchohol free gasoline near you .

You got that right !

I'm not going to argue about it . You use what you want & I will use what I want .

BTW brake assembly fluid = Raybestos BAF-12 I have used this for more than 20 years . Google it .

If you fiddle with these things remember , NO petroleum products EVER . There is a brake assembly fluid available and you should purchase and use it . BTW , these caliper pistons and seals are designed to retract to the original position after the master cylinder is released .

BTW , you need to reassemble / install every bolt & part like it is going to come back apart someday .

I am blank . Is this a vented crankcase or closed ? These are cheesey ( sp? ) hoses and everyone needs to keep an eye on them . It is not the hardest job to do but if the assembly line clocked the hose clamp wrong , you are in for a JOB ! I know . Remember this when you reinstall EVERYTHING but the alternator cover doing this .

I think it is crafty that you fixed it to where you could extend one piston at a time & clean it up , then go to the next one until you have finished them all .

This wooden block looks great . Can you post specs on the dimensions ?

In wiring diagrams , a blob or dot where wires intersect , indicates a splice .

Mmmmmmmm. I think you need to fix this ( rebuild ) for best results

What is the fromt / rear tire pressure ? Get the bike up on center andhave someone hold the front of the bike . Then try prying the swingarm from side to side . If you are uncomfortable with the handling , ask the former owner or someone you trust for helping sort this out .

Cash , you have solved your problem . The piston has to retract enough to allow fluid to return to the reservoir . If not , you will be using the master cylinder to jack to clamp the caliper and not release the pressure . Adjust the screw as I recommended earlier and you will correct your problem . As far as the front brake lever adjustment you need to do this with the knob on the lever .

when I say the same , I mean the same . 1.5 , 2.0 or 3.5 sounds similar but are VERY different .

Anything can go bad . Inspect the adjusting screw first . It is easiest to do . Back it out until you have clearance. screw it in until all slack is removed , then back off ( unscrew ) 1/2 to 1 turn . This should take care of things . Anyone else want to chime in ?