gstallons

If you fiddle with these things remember , NO petroleum products EVER . There is a brake assembly fluid available and you should purchase and use it . BTW , these caliper pistons and seals are designed to retract to the original position after the master cylinder is released .

BTW , you need to reassemble / install every bolt & part like it is going to come back apart someday .

I am blank . Is this a vented crankcase or closed ? These are cheesey ( sp? ) hoses and everyone needs to keep an eye on them . It is not the hardest job to do but if the assembly line clocked the hose clamp wrong , you are in for a JOB ! I know . Remember this when you reinstall EVERYTHING but the alternator cover doing this .

I think it is crafty that you fixed it to where you could extend one piston at a time & clean it up , then go to the next one until you have finished them all .

This wooden block looks great . Can you post specs on the dimensions ?

In wiring diagrams , a blob or dot where wires intersect , indicates a splice .

Mmmmmmmm. I think you need to fix this ( rebuild ) for best results

What is the fromt / rear tire pressure ? Get the bike up on center andhave someone hold the front of the bike . Then try prying the swingarm from side to side . If you are uncomfortable with the handling , ask the former owner or someone you trust for helping sort this out .

Cash , you have solved your problem . The piston has to retract enough to allow fluid to return to the reservoir . If not , you will be using the master cylinder to jack to clamp the caliper and not release the pressure . Adjust the screw as I recommended earlier and you will correct your problem . As far as the front brake lever adjustment you need to do this with the knob on the lever .

when I say the same , I mean the same . 1.5 , 2.0 or 3.5 sounds similar but are VERY different .

Anything can go bad . Inspect the adjusting screw first . It is easiest to do . Back it out until you have clearance. screw it in until all slack is removed , then back off ( unscrew ) 1/2 to 1 turn . This should take care of things . Anyone else want to chime in ?

Can you get a wiring diagram and look to see what might be the matter ? And are you installing the correct coil ? Check the resistance in the primary of the good coil against the replacement coils to see if they are the same .

I am always curious . You are really up on electronics & I like it .

Has anyone been turning any screws they don't know what they do ?

When you say " stripping them down " , how far down do you mean ? If you are extending / cleaning the caliper pistons and pushing them back into their bores , good . Reinstall everything and bleed the brakes . Then , raise the front wheel and pull the front brake lever and release . the front wheel should spin with no drag . If it does not spin , break one bleeder screw and see if the wheel turns . If not , do this to the other caliper and see what happens. If there is still drag or no change , the calipers are sticking . If the front wheel spins after releasing one or both caliper bleed screws , either the front brake hose is bad or the front brake master cylinder is bad .

Hey , this is good stuff . how did you latch on to this ?

There is a link ( lever ) on the throttle shaft that links to the TPS actuator.

No ? Do you mean TPS in general or this one ? It is a potentiometer....plain & simple . Google or Youtube some info or videos today . Follow up and draw the diagram yourself and practice..... Vref---| | > > > > I I Gnd Vref is reference voltage . It could be 2.5,3,5,6 or 12v . Gnd is ground , earth or whatever you want to call it . The link between these is a resistance of a designed amount . The Signal return is the V return going back to the ecm . The lower the Signal on the scale , the lower V return & vice / versa . These usually fail at the point they operate at most of the time . Sometime they can be revived with a tuner cleaner / lubricant . Other times you replace them. To test these , start connecting your meter leads until you find two terminals that do not change resistance with turning the lever or knob . Then connect one of the leads to the unused terminal and rotate the wiper . Resistance should change w/o any glitches . Try it in all combinations til you get familiar with the procedure .

Mine is a 2003 Sport w/the shi??y engine paint , white face gauges , chin pad & external fuel pump too. Don't worry about an exact model year ....None of us care about ours .

emry . CDI is capacitor discharge ignition ? What is TCI ?

Yes , there is a gap @ the spark plug . You do not want an open in the primary or secondary windings of the coil . an open in the spark plug wire , cap or the internal connection of the spark plug . The ignition coil is a step-up transformer . In a conventional electrical system , an open in the secondary will increase amperage in the primary .

What is the condition ( resistance ) of the spark plug wire , cap and the spark plug ? Measure all three and report these numbers . To check the spark plug , you measure from the spark plug center electrode to the top of the spark plug . Remember , an open in the secondary will increase amperage in the primary .

Yes ! BTW , HRC_V4 , you need a new sobriquet . Steve Austin or The Six Million Dollar Man .

Uh oh , another odd color green one !

You might want to get a 5/16" or 8mm fender washer and lock washer too .