gstallons

Yep . it does this trick after every start .

This choke is a fast idle cam . To the best of my knowledge the ECM uses temp input to enrich the air/fuel ratio .

That little shift extension is more than you could ever imagine .

You have come to the right place ! Start posting .

These are Bosch style connectors . You should be able to Google and find them .

Yes , yours is correct . I will try to find my adapter & take a pic . I was able to grease both ends & slip yoke w/o much trouble .

When you replace / install u-joints , you want to install joints w/the fitting facing the drive tube . Look at the pic of Docc's bike & this is what you want to see .

Dairy Air ..... Ha

This guy is pretttttty good... He did as much as one can do with one acoustic guitar .

NAPA Aviation form-a-gasket No.3 sealant part # B/K 765-1210

You can get a non hardening teflon sealant @ NAPA . I will go outside and try to find a part # . True Hylomar is difficult to find . Amazon , if none of the Rolls Royce dealers in your area stock it . Order some for down the road . If it were me , I would use Loctite 515 in place of the gasket . It is an anaerobic sealer and you can use it alone or with a gasket.

I love Hylomar on gaskets . If you EVER need to remove , they come off looking like new . And yes the alignment bolts w/heads cut off is the only way to go .

docc , try experimenting with prying the shields out of the old bearings . a screwdriver is the best thing to pry with . You will get a technique and remember it. Remove one shield only on the new bearing and pack it w/high temp wheel bearing grease. Replace the shield and install this side in the swingarm first. This is just in case you did less than perfect on reinstalling the dust shield . Good luck .

If you own a V11 you need to do this .

Redline it is !

Somewhere on this site , a guy installed a return spring to hold this mechanism up and in place . Find it and do yours like this and it will never fail .

As long as the best looking portions of the thrust washers face the rollers you will be good . Assemble with white lube you will be ok.

The part on the lower left , is the thrust face in perfect condition ? Can you clean it up and take a close-up photo of it ?

I hope the washer in the upper right is going to go on the worn portion of the part on the lower left ? If not & If this is as ugly in person as in the picture , you are spinning your wheels and you need this part also . That bearing is a Torrington bearing and most good bearing supply stores can get you the OEM quality part . I'm not too sure about this replacement in the picture.

I replaced my vent pipe ( rubber hose ) and no check valve was in the hose .

Any fastener that goes into a open hole should have thread sealant on the threads . Blind hole fasteners do not need sealant . When you do supply sealant , the bolt should be completely clean and free from any oil . Same goes for the hole threads .

Print off a diagram of the valve train . Remove the valve cover , rocker arm assermbly , take a pic and remove the o-ring . Replace the o-ring and reassemble . You can remove the spark plugs to make the valve adjustment easier . There are steps on this forum to help w/valve adjustment .

If I remember correctly , the problem is an o-ring under the rocker arm assembly that is bad . You will have to look at a parts breakdown or call a good dealer for help with parts . Get enough to do both sides , valve cover gaskets & perform valve adjustments while you are there . Do the clearance to international specs.

My bike had K&N pods when I purchased it . They sounded terrible & I hooked up the stock setup .

Can you locate metric drill bits ? SnapOn has them and I'm sure machine shop supply houses or GOOD automotive supply houses will have them .