gstallons

Is your vent dreather open and in perfect conditin ?

I like high amperage mistakes .

I did it just because I would do dumb things and blow the fuse.

You will probably have to bump the fuses up to 15 or 20a to keep from replacing them ( I know ) often .

Gregg Allman...R.I.P. one of the greatest .

There are a lot of aluminum engines that come with Heli-Coils installed in every threaded hole.

I "think" this is a decal...Anyone else want to chime in ?

I have this pigtail on my bike wired directly to the battery and tied off close to the swingarm / brake pedal area so In don't have to remove or disconnect anything to charge the battery . since I haven't ridden in two years I need some thrill , even if it is to pull back the blanket and charge the battery .

Remove the field housing ( long round thing that holds the fields) and look to see if they have come loose . They are glued in place and their relationship in there is important . Any portion of them that is broken is bad news . euromotoelectrics is a great place for parts for these starters. Their website may have breakdowns for you to study.

Ha... ELP.

If it is the connector you are holding , you can get them at a good (old) electronics store .

SAE connector ?

did you find a connector & repair it ?

It is a threaded "sleeve" as a Heli-Coil is like a spiral wire .

TimeSert is a great product. E-Z lok ( Fastenal ) is a great thread repair too .

to add to Kiwi Roy's input .If the battery is connected backward , any permanent magnet staring motor will spin . The problem is , it spins in reverse . e.g. the starter spins but not crank the engine . This works on any simple electrical system such as a small engine on riding mowers , etc . Vehicles with more complicated electrical systems allow smoke to come out of places that shouldn't . I KNOW .

Remove your starter cover and take a test light , touch it to the small tab of the starter solenoid . Press the start button to see if the test light comes on. If so, your problem is in the starter . Remove the small wire and try wiring a starter button to same terminal and to 12v at the battery cable portion of the solenoid. If you get the same results , it's time for starter repair. If the starting motor works , you need to go backward into the start circuit.

Follow it and see where it goes.

I like what you have done to this bike... You will do at least the same to the V11 . They are almost perfect . You will $pend a lot of time perfecting it. So , you have a manger ? Hmmmm.

The feeling is worse than Erectile Distraction .

No , I spent about $125 to get them cleaned properly . Air tool motor oil dripped on them for about a week and they meant a lot to me so the $$$ didn't matter .

The sensor has swollen and will be difficult to remove , order a new one and make sure you get a new seal too . The oil pressure can leak......if you are afraid of it , order a new one too.

You do have the hoses on the pump correctly ? This leak does not occur until the ignition is turned "on" ?

can you take a picture of where this leak is taking place ? Baby powder on the area will show the exact place . The hose might have a crack where it is clamped .Both pumps can't (unlikely) be bad and leak so I would look at the connections.

One of my Top 10 reads of all time .