gstallons

The greenies are beautiful but the Coppa paint scheme is righteous .

These mods look better than the replacement spring . I would go this route if mine ever fails . I got the sturdier spring and put it in my luggage so it will never fail .

Looks good !

Buy it. You should know better than ask questions like this .

Asking too much is to give up one to get the other . You need to rationalize having more than one .

There is no reason you can't .

We're American , that is English......

I knew someone would do that .

Gray as in gray or aluminum ?

You might want to call a bearing vendor and speak to a knowledgeable salesman . Ask him if there are different quality bearings in the same base part # ? The base #s we are working with are ( I think ) are 205 and 304 . Let me know what you find .

Not all berings are created equal. What brand / part #s are you getting ?

What happened to yours ?

These bikes are meant to be personalized . Someone said , " the only reason these bikes come assembled is to make sure you get all the parts " .

I like that !

You can , I would ground them or use a clip-on spark tester on both wires to keep stray spark from giving you unwanted results .

I assume you did not install the release bearing dry ?

You should not warp the case with this weld job. He should weld , stop , weld , stop until it is finished. f you try to fix or weld up a large area you might warp something .

I would think nuclear fuel would be less expensive than this ? YEOW !

Please get / make some washers from shim stock where you have VERY little clearance when reassembling this

If you have no "free travel" in your clutch lever , the washer trick is not going to change things . Your master cylinder is going to give you X amount of fluid for the slave to move. If you add too much thickness the slave piston will bottom in the slave cylinder and will maintain constant pressure on the release mechanism. The metal surfaces the friction material contacts has to be perfect. If the discs are larger or smaller in circumference you will have a problem . Think of the o/s edge of a 33 1/3 LP . I hope you can . If the metal surface looks like this , the friction material will drag here and cause you problems.

Whew.. I would think about using a rotary burr and digging out some of this first. I don't know how others repaired their problem . If you do put a washer / spacer in place you want a select fit so this won't happen again .

Glad you are here . Now , start posting !

I am using non-insulated butt connectors with heat shrink now. I see where this is the authorized/approved method of Ford Motor Co. I started a few months ago & I don't think I will do anything else now .

If I plug noid lights into the fuel injector connectors , turn the ignition switch into the run position , these noid lights will light up for a period of time ?

Keep in mind , not all CF products are created equal . I bought some side covers off eBay & they looked like they were made in somebody's back yard .