gstallons

The rubber in the bushings twists . The sleeve is to be clamped with the bolt into it's retainer .

I mean real exaggerated angles . The minor adjustments we are making w/the (longer) shift arm extension and changes in rod length are not going to cause any harm.

I was throwing this out for general knowledge or discussion . Linkages with same lever lengths should have the same relationship on their shafts. i.e. they should appear as a parallelogram from the side . You will get the same input / output from lever movement .

Make sure you get a Roper Plate, two pan gaskets and hose clamp for the oil change.

That is terrible and sad news. Sorry to hear .

A long time ago , I used Channel Master Tuner Cleaner. I don't know what is the best product now ?

And you don't know where we would be w/o you and your site .

I am gonna have to look at my bike's linkage before I blab any more .

I discussed this (lever, linkage efficiency) last year with this older mechanic about brake levers on drum brake mechanisms . He told me , the best brake effort is when the pulled brake lever is at 90 degrees when fully applied . I do not know how much is helped or hurt when shift linkage is lengthened / shortened ? 6 mm of length will make a BIG difference of lever position .

Hmmm. I like the scale .

I extended my shift linkage and modified my linkage rod as I mentioned in other posts. No problems .

Yes. I suppose so

They looked " aviation " quality .

Yes , all levers work best @ 90 degrees . 90 degrees at rest or 90 degrees applied ?

You can but , it takes a LOT of time do do this .

Where did these come from ?

The sad fact about the rod ends and threaded rod is , they are both r.h. thread . You will need to buy a l.h. rod end and threaded rod to accept this. You can then adjust to fit your needs.

The ratcheting crimpers that Scud has in the upper right of the photo are the best you can buy. There are different companies that market them . Some are sold in a kit form with different jaws .

y'all ..... You hear ( or I have ) this term all of your life . It looks unusual to see it in print .

There are a lot of drive shafts with that feature . I just pulled a front driveshaft from a 2004 F-150 4WD and it came from the factory with the slip yoke 90 degrees out of phase . I had to grind the index spline to where I could get it where I wanted it. Go figure ?

Close is close...... I am not sure how much 2 degrees will matter. An opinion from a specialist ( and I mean SPECIALIST ) will be the best advice .and direction to go .

Yup, this is so true. Sorry to have added complexity by asking about the voltmeter. It won't likely be necessary to solve this. The DVOM will not give you the best result . The test light will add a load to the circuit . If the circuit will light the test light , you have a good circuit and you are ready to fix your problem or the next step .

He is that good .

These are ( or appear to be ) Oetiker clamps . They are a single use clamp . You can find more or use a conventional screw type hose clamp .

Don't worry about using a ( if you don't have one ) DVOM , you will find what you need with a GOOD test light with a long lead attached to a good ground . If it will light a test light bulb , it is a good circuit .