gstallons

You will install it in the hole farthest away from the pivot point .

You should have your $ now !

done .... sorry

Crimp the female portion of the connector and use electrical connector grease when reassembling.

When you look for the ignition system arcing , use a spray bottle of water in a glass cleaner bottle . Spray it on the wires , plug caps , etc. & if there is arcing going on it will show up . If it does , remove the wires and caps . Then check them w/an ohmmeter to see what is bad.

If you end up with one of these that needs a home , I'm in .

Where did you go to pick it up ?

Maybe cleaning the injectors will help?While I had the tank off my bike to change the fuel filter, old cracked fuel hoses, & put a heat insulating sleeve over the pump, I found that the fuel tap inlet screen was mostly covered with what looked like brown fluff matted into felt. Maybe the fuel filter was coming apart, or it got some dirty fuel. I saw more of this in the pump intake screen, and a little in the pressure regulator screen. Any debris in the pressure regulator means debris in the injectors too. I took the injectors out and back-flushed them. You need lots of patience to get the injectors out, and that is a good time to clean the throttle bodies. I adapted the nozzle of a spray can of throttle body cleaner to the outlet nose of the injector, applied pressure from the can, and momentarily pulsed 12v to the injector (without sparks setting fire to everything). Cleaning fluid bubbles out the intake and hopefully carries away the stuff that makes your injector dribble. Then I reversed the rig to blow cleaner in the normal intake end. I got spray patterns about 1 metre long, 200mm wide. If I was thinking, I would have tested the spray pattern before I back flushed the injectors, but no. While the tank was off, I sloshed detergent and hot water through it to get any more debris out. Ran better after that. Injector Cleaning.jpg If yours is a 2003 w/ external pump , the fuel shutoff and screen is in front of the fuel filter . That screen traps bad stuff going through the fuel shut-off . You should frequently exercise the fuel shut-off to keep it from getting stuck in place . Ass far as your injector cleaning goes , you can apply 12v to them for 20 seconds or less w/o fear of hurting them . They have a coil , pintle & spring inside . When you reinstall the injectors you can use any oil or grease to make it easier. Geed luck

IDK what threebond 1211 is ? Loctite gasket eliminator is THE best thing I have used .

I'll say you did....

there is no normal start time for these bikes . As a matter of fact there is no normal anything for these bikes. If you want to post a video of a first start , we might tell you it is o.k. or not .

Happy Birthday brother !

Was this sold to you to be a direct fit part ? use ( sparingly ) a good gasket sealant to aid this on reassembly . Hylomar or Loctite 515 ( I think is the # ) are good products . Use no silicone of any type , this will cause the gasket to creep and come out .

I don't know but it looks like "sludge". I don't like it. Can you clean the pan , refill it with oil , ride it for an hour , remove the pan & inspect the pan again ? What are your riding habits ? Time , distance , etc....

Wasn't this the first wind tunnel ? Any arguments ? I know Guzzi was the first motorcycle w/a driveshaft ( I know BMW was the first production bike w/a shaft drive ) , the first swingarm and the first w/a sidestand .

Is there any way to inspect this situation to see if there is a potential problem ? Also , have you thought of using a Rue Ring cotter pin in place of the hairpin clip ? Google them , they are the most righteous thing you will use !

That looks pretty good , did you come up with this idea ?

A couple of years ago , I was helping a buddy bleed the front brakes on a BMW with dual ( I think ) front calipers. We ran 2 qts of fluid with every device / procedure possible . James finally called a buddy over at Grassroots BMW . They advised him ( I think this was the technique ) to put it on the sidestand pointing uphill , point the handlebars in a certain direction and hook up the bleed hose with the loop , pour fluid in and squeeze the lever until the air bubble comes out. I swear to GOD it bled in less than 20 seconds. When you find the way to do this w/o much trouble , please post it !

If you have the Vacula bleed system , reverse bleeding is THE way to go ! If not , use the clear tube w / the loop and squeeze til you get it !

2 things . 1 I was always uner the assumption that all TPSs were linear . 2 how can a hall effect switch pass / put out / emit a variable resistance / voltage ? I was under the impression it transmitted a square wave ( on / off ) , being more of a switch and could not transmit a variable R or E (voltage) . Does this now work as a variable capacitor ?

You suspect a dud TPS , do you know how to test it ?

Yep....

Check the oil level and ride it home . Your boot & maybe your pant leg will be soaked . When you get home , remove the valve cover and you might find the wrong gasket on the valve cover . Silicone gaskets are available or if you can't wait , use a gasket eliminator .

You have a GB 500 just like Docc ? How many other V 11 riders have one in their stables ?

startus interruptus ....I like that