gstallons

That is funny . Also thank you for being the interpreter !

Well , they come in two categories : easy and impossible .

You can do it . Just take plenty of pictures and make note of all lines as to where they are . after you do it 3 or 4 Xs it gets EZ . Remove things to make everything easier .

There are some noises that NEED to be there . Mechanical lifters , clutch sounds ( lever pulled in or released) , straight cut gears , etc. If you know what you are hearing . Wow ! If it is making expensive sounds , not wow .

Please explain which spring you are looking for ? Can you tell us if it is inside the shift cover ? Maybe someone can post a diagram and you can identify it.

Mmmmm. don't forget , that every screw has some sort of Loctite on it.

You could remove one intake manifold and install it on the assy. and put it back together .

No , but you can buy the assy. for (probably) a good price , inspect it . If it looks good , install it . If not , tear into it and try to make one out of two .

I see no reason they would NOT work . If you have access to Moto Guzzi parts you could see if it will . And , yes this is considered an assy. that is why EVERYTHING has Loctite on everything w/threads . I don't like it but that's the way it goes . If you were trying to fix one side you would have to find a dismantler that would be willing to part this out. Good Luck

The NGK caps are a part # LB05F . I think I put them on my red frame after dropping it in the Waffle Hut parking lot.

Enrico Caruso is ok . George Thorogood , he is "Bad to The Bad" !

BTW , if noise bothers you , you don't need a MotoGuzzi .

Someone was peddling aluminum straight cut gears some time ago. These would have a lifespan of an ice cream cone . If they are made from the proper metal , they should last a long time. You would want to lube all of this stuff on assy. You would never put things together dry.

If these are noisy like straight cut gears in a small block Chevy , they sound like George Thorogood !

I have some NOS (old) Champion and NGK caps I inherited from a friend and have them laying around here. You can get them from any good bike shop .

He will have to explain that theory . You need the battery ground ON the engine frame to be as effective as possible and get the best results. You want a perfect circuit in electrical to work correctly . Not like the wiring diagram shows. You can run a redundant - cable from the regulator ground to the battery cable ground for a perfect circuit. Just route it so it won't look hillbilly . 20+ years ago I worked on this Sullair air compressor that the company had spent $4500 on to get it to start correctly. SLOOOOW cranking . I used a test light and went from the + post of the battery to the starter where cable was attached to . Tried cranking and no light. Did the same to the - terminal of the battery to a good ground spot . Starter mounting bolt . Tried it again and the test light came on Bright. The - battery cable had been factory installed with the - cable attached outside of the battery box on the frame . Installed a new - cable from the battery to the starter mounting bolt with shakeproof washers on both sides of the battery cable lug and it was fixed !

I've read about and saw videos where he mates all kinds of engines together . Impressive , but what are you gonna do with it ?

One inch chicken strip. A new term for me !

I use a silicone dielectric grease to put in the hole of the boot (about as much as you would put toothpaste on a toothbrush) in the bore of the cap and a smear around where the boot contacts the bore of the cylinder head . I use Motorcraft because it is readily available here . They are all similar so no one brand is better than the other.

What I am referring to (as in the V11) are the caps / boots that screw on to the ends of the spark plug wires . and push on to the spark plugs.

I remember now , you want the regulator - to go to a good ground (engine block or a solid frame) ground . The battery cable ground can go to the engine block . this is in case you lose a good ground connection and the circuit will use the regulator ground wire to complete the circuit w/terrible results. That 14ga (I think) wire will not handle the load of the starter and melt

Looking at that diagram , you will see a ground wire cooling off the v reg and attaching to - and I would assume it would attach to the frame . This and the - going to the battery. Someone posted an opinion (I can't remember if it was Kiwi-Roy or not) about grounding a particular way because if the ground to the battery to frame got loose the other ground wiring would be responsible for all the current load . The results would be BAD . On all ground wire applications I use shakeproof washers and a clean connection w/the goo of your choice to prevent oxidation. IDK how the regulator is constructed inside so I am not sure if the regulator is "on" or just "available" at all times ?

Pete , are these solid core wires and the plug caps screw in ? Also , if these are solid core wires , they will have resistors in the caps ? My red frame had a hick-up / miss and one of the caps were "open" .

I was watching a video the other day and the AI voice butchered the words so bad if it did not have subtitles I would have been lost.

MG Cycle are good guys to buy from .