gstallons

BIN ?

I am not going to make it . Don't ask . I will do it next year .

According to the wiring diagrams , your ignition key and wiring diagram is exclusive to (it seems) your bike ! Everyone should consider looking at (reprinting) the diagram in the back of their manual and enlarging it to where you can make it out easily.

Looks pretty good to me

According to this diagram , the start circuit consists of ign. switch , sidestand sw., start sw., clutch sw., starter relay then to the starter . Do try the jumper wire to the starter solenoid to make sure the starter is good before you start diagnosing the no-start. After you get the ign. sw. problem lined out and you are happy with it , go through this circuit and look for v at each part making sure you have + going in and going out.

It is a slick idea putting this on your phone ! Did you make this or get it off a website ? BTW , hearing a relay click doesn't mean THE starter relay being activated , there are 5 relays total in that panel so anything is possible.

No , on second thought this N switch will only fix the N light . To make it quicker , unplug the N switch and touch it to a good earth (ground) and the light should come on . If you are having to travel to the bike , make a list of things to do and an order of what to do. Do make sure the battery is UP to at least 12.65v . IDK what the AGM battery is fully charged.

All those British bikes were righteous ! Reliable ......no.

First make sure the bike is in in N before you get started. If you would , try touching a hot wire to the start sol. on the starter to see if it works. If it does , go back to relay #1 and swap with another relay . Even though you experienced a relay click doesn't mean the relay works.

Thank you for the compliments. But , this bike ain't started yet . Also , I have made a lot of mistakes getting this far. Education comes from two sources . 1 authority; don't stick your finger in that light socket 2 experience; I stuck my finger in the light socket with exciting results

AFA the engine condition , you should remove the alternator cover , spark plugs and try to bar the engine over with a ratchet/socket . It should rotate SMOOTHLY with no snags or restrictions. It may be a little rough the first revolution or when you "break" the engine loose.

No problem . the neutral switch is at fault . Remove it spray contact cleaner on it and work it a LOT and then check continuity w an meter to see if it closes and opens. Reinstall and go.

If I were you , I'd get another TB assy. and make sure it is in good shape. I would consider having the injectors reconditioned . There are plenty of good shops . I use RC Fuel Injector service in Torrance , Ca. Good people and the print off a flow chart of the readings.

I was able to do both of mine by removing the throttle body to cylinder head air boot bolts and removing everything. It was not fun but I got it out and back in .

A lot of people have left off one or more of the ring terminals when playing around with the battery . Don't overlook this area .

You can do these same tests w/the positive side of the alternator circuit. I want this thing fixed.

For now , use a DVOM and go from the battery negative terminal to the ground wire at the regulator . It should read 0 volts. Then disconnect the original ground wire from the regulator and use test light and test the wire integrity going from the battery positive to the lug at the ground wire you disconnected . You should get a good bright light . After that Check the voltage from the battery positive to the battery negative . Record your v reading . Now check the voltage from the battery positive to the ground wire at the regulator. You should have an identical voltage reading. Even if you do not discover anything you will learn how to detect voltage drops. Also , you will learn how important a test light STILL is .

BTW , any time you are checking for B+ or ground use a conventional test light to test for the "quality" of the circuit. the test light will load the circuit to make sure it is good. You do have ground wire thtat attaches to the regulator case ?

Everyone's input and advice is important on this subject . Make sure of every step you take and tests you perform . My black frame is not together (yet) and I did post some voltage readings some time ago but I think it should be around 14.5v. or greater at high idle .

welcome to the club !

Please do not get distracted by the indicator light story . This was JUST an example of how screwy things can be. That was a 60s BMW and this is a V11 MG. I assume you have the wiring diagram for YOUR bike ? This is important. One wiring diagram I have and I think this is my 2002/3 V11 shows two yellow wires (GI) from the stator windings to the reg. The red/green wire next to it (R-VE) goes from the regulator to f3 . The next light blue wire (AZ) goes from the reg. to the charge indicator lamp. Then the final wire red/black coming from the reg (R-N) goes to the brake lights , headlamp switch then to the instrument cluster benz lamp ( whatever that is) . Finally there is a ground wire attached to the fastener holding the reg to the frame. It ties in w/the battery ground cable. check every one of these to verify operation . Make sure the red/green wire that goes from the + post of the battery to f3 to the reg has B+ v . The other one , if you have lights that circuit is good. If you have a charge light it is good. Good luck.

Are there any alternator rebuild shops near you that can test all your old parts ? you can verify if any of these parts were / are bad . This can eliminate the fact whether or not the fault was in any of these parts v the problem is in the wiring . Old BMW airhead bikes were made so if the charge indicator light in the headlight nacelle was bad , the charging system would not charge ! Now , your v regulator , how many wires come out of it ? this way I can look at the correct wiring diagram and do some thinking .

You do not want to be disconnecting a battery on these computer controlled IC vehicles w/the engine running. Bad things can happen with the engine control systems .

Sorry , I took for granted .....

Before the advent of F.I. , computer controls & outer space technology : you could disconnect one battery post and if the vehicle continued running the charging system was working. Please do not do this with anything now . Bad stuff can happen . You do need a voltmeter connected to the battery to test KOEO battery voltage , KOER battery voltage at idle , 1500 rpm and 2500 rpm. IDK what the #s should be but test and give us these #s . Someone can give a good opinion. Can you give us a work history and a parts install history so we can look this stuff over and give an opinion ? The maxim "you put enuf parts on it and it will work" doesn't always work . There is something overlooked or bad parts or all the above !