gstallons

BTW , if noise bothers you , you don't need a MotoGuzzi .

Someone was peddling aluminum straight cut gears some time ago. These would have a lifespan of an ice cream cone . If they are made from the proper metal , they should last a long time. You would want to lube all of this stuff on assy. You would never put things together dry.

If these are noisy like straight cut gears in a small block Chevy , they sound like George Thorogood !

I have some NOS (old) Champion and NGK caps I inherited from a friend and have them laying around here. You can get them from any good bike shop .

He will have to explain that theory . You need the battery ground ON the engine frame to be as effective as possible and get the best results. You want a perfect circuit in electrical to work correctly . Not like the wiring diagram shows. You can run a redundant - cable from the regulator ground to the battery cable ground for a perfect circuit. Just route it so it won't look hillbilly . 20+ years ago I worked on this Sullair air compressor that the company had spent $4500 on to get it to start correctly. SLOOOOW cranking . I used a test light and went from the + post of the battery to the starter where cable was attached to . Tried cranking and no light. Did the same to the - terminal of the battery to a good ground spot . Starter mounting bolt . Tried it again and the test light came on Bright. The - battery cable had been factory installed with the - cable attached outside of the battery box on the frame . Installed a new - cable from the battery to the starter mounting bolt with shakeproof washers on both sides of the battery cable lug and it was fixed !

I've read about and saw videos where he mates all kinds of engines together . Impressive , but what are you gonna do with it ?

One inch chicken strip. A new term for me !

I use a silicone dielectric grease to put in the hole of the boot (about as much as you would put toothpaste on a toothbrush) in the bore of the cap and a smear around where the boot contacts the bore of the cylinder head . I use Motorcraft because it is readily available here . They are all similar so no one brand is better than the other.

What I am referring to (as in the V11) are the caps / boots that screw on to the ends of the spark plug wires . and push on to the spark plugs.

I remember now , you want the regulator - to go to a good ground (engine block or a solid frame) ground . The battery cable ground can go to the engine block . this is in case you lose a good ground connection and the circuit will use the regulator ground wire to complete the circuit w/terrible results. That 14ga (I think) wire will not handle the load of the starter and melt

Looking at that diagram , you will see a ground wire cooling off the v reg and attaching to - and I would assume it would attach to the frame . This and the - going to the battery. Someone posted an opinion (I can't remember if it was Kiwi-Roy or not) about grounding a particular way because if the ground to the battery to frame got loose the other ground wiring would be responsible for all the current load . The results would be BAD . On all ground wire applications I use shakeproof washers and a clean connection w/the goo of your choice to prevent oxidation. IDK how the regulator is constructed inside so I am not sure if the regulator is "on" or just "available" at all times ?

Pete , are these solid core wires and the plug caps screw in ? Also , if these are solid core wires , they will have resistors in the caps ? My red frame had a hick-up / miss and one of the caps were "open" .

I was watching a video the other day and the AI voice butchered the words so bad if it did not have subtitles I would have been lost.

MG Cycle are good guys to buy from .

My bike came with K&N pods . after one ride they came off and the stock set-up went on . whew , IDK how to describe the noise (not to be confused with a sound) but noise . I know I don't want to hear it again .

I watched it strictly for the play-by-play and color commentary ! even w/her meltdown the Brother kept it in perspective !

They were manufactured to do one thing . Accelerate .

There is/was a facility "being" built in Hopkinsville , Ky. to reclaim Li-Ion batteries . Polyaramid separation ( I think was the process) . It was supposed to be this black "dirt" end product to be reused in EV battery production. It was about 50% -70% done and halted . This was to be the only facility in North America to do this recycling at present . There are all kinds of "reasons" this was stopped . I have heard and read so much , I stopped thinking. You will have to decide for yourself. Microvast had another facility going up in Clarksville and shuttered it around the same time .

That was funny . I think she went out and bought another Toyota or something . IDK what she has done w/the Tesla . I feel sorry for the man or woman that marries her !

$100 bills !

The scary thing about developing the perfect/superior EV battery is ; what happens when your new perfect / superior EV battery has now been usurped by a new EV battery that is now 5% lighter , 5% more efficient and 5% less expensive. This goes well until a newer EV battery is developed that is 2.5% better in all of these areas. This goes along the lines of MX bikes in the 70s-80s. Today's technology is GREAT until tomorrow's bike hits the showroom .

And I would tell that Ford CEO he could drive that EV straight out the gate and find him a new job ! If he can't support the Company that writes his check..... You don't work for the University of Louisville and wear Blue & White clothing .

Weren't they advertised to go 0-60 mph in 2.2sec. ?

Keep us abreast on your progress !

You got me ! IDK what a solid-state battery or a tab_less battery is . I thought they started out w/a zillion 18650 batteries in series parallel in a gigantic highly volatile tray that didn't like a floor jack getting it's virginity .