gstallons

Anything with more than 3 wheels you operate has resistor spark plugs and non-solid core spark plug wires that have from 500-1000k resistance per ft of length . Does that bother you enough to change one of them ? No. If you were going to fiddle with anything , remove the resistor caps and install non-resistor caps . Google the question and read up on this reason they are installed on ignition systems .

To answer coreytrevor's question , spark plugs ( or most of them ) with R on the part # have resistance built in them . Most spark plug caps have a resistor built into them . It is better to have both than neither .

Well........if you remove the resistors from the caps and leave an open in the circuit , then what do you have ? Is there any reason you do not want them ?

You will love this bike . RedLine for the gearbox is what everyone is running . I run Motorcraft synthetic 75/90 . The two tank vents , inspect the fittings to verify they are not stopped up . You can use a vacuum tee to joint these together and route to a safe location to exit the fumesdown between the transmission / swingarm . I hope you inspect / repair ALL electrical connectors while the tank is off & I hope you get the tank back on easily . Take plenty of time on this site so you can plan your moves. I didn't but you should keep a ledger of your work . And good luck and good riding .

Who is selling the clutch ? You docc ?

I thought I was the only one with that flavor ? If you remove the seat you can see evidence of paint fade .

I know , it's sad he is dumping it for such a small reason .

my ? is ......is Pandamonium selling his bike ?

What ?

Don't forget the fact , one fork leg controls compression and one controls rebound .

Hey....rode my first Breva yesterday .. I could get used to one of these real fast .

Would you be happier buying / installing the bushings or not buying / installing the bushings ? On using the Seal-Mate , remember the seal you see on the o/s of the fork is the dust seal . The actual oil seal is up inside the fork . Look at a parts diagram to understand what I am referring to .

Yep . it does this trick after every start .

This choke is a fast idle cam . To the best of my knowledge the ECM uses temp input to enrich the air/fuel ratio .

That little shift extension is more than you could ever imagine .

You have come to the right place ! Start posting .

These are Bosch style connectors . You should be able to Google and find them .

Yes , yours is correct . I will try to find my adapter & take a pic . I was able to grease both ends & slip yoke w/o much trouble .

When you replace / install u-joints , you want to install joints w/the fitting facing the drive tube . Look at the pic of Docc's bike & this is what you want to see .

Dairy Air ..... Ha

This guy is pretttttty good... He did as much as one can do with one acoustic guitar .

NAPA Aviation form-a-gasket No.3 sealant part # B/K 765-1210

You can get a non hardening teflon sealant @ NAPA . I will go outside and try to find a part # . True Hylomar is difficult to find . Amazon , if none of the Rolls Royce dealers in your area stock it . Order some for down the road . If it were me , I would use Loctite 515 in place of the gasket . It is an anaerobic sealer and you can use it alone or with a gasket.

I love Hylomar on gaskets . If you EVER need to remove , they come off looking like new . And yes the alignment bolts w/heads cut off is the only way to go .

docc , try experimenting with prying the shields out of the old bearings . a screwdriver is the best thing to pry with . You will get a technique and remember it. Remove one shield only on the new bearing and pack it w/high temp wheel bearing grease. Replace the shield and install this side in the swingarm first. This is just in case you did less than perfect on reinstalling the dust shield . Good luck .