Do you have a timing light ? To check for spark w/o removing anything . Do you have a Bosch type noid light ? To check for fuel injector pulse . Do you have a fuel pressure gauge ? To check for fuel flow & pressure .
First , make sure you have EVERY connection plugged in correctly and connected well .
The proper name for these star wahers are : internal , external or internal/external tooth lock washers .
I use all three styles . If I am connecting to ground I use at least one washer .
Can you explain how center or ground electrode diameter has any effect or affect on when the spark jumps the gap ? I assumed the superior spark would take place at the greatest piont in coil saturation ? I was taught spark takes place the when igniton is triggered with ignition pionts or trigger device have gone from a closed to open condition ?
Look around where the wire the N light connector plugs in to the switch and follow the wire as far as you can looking for pinch points , cuts or signs of abrasion . If this is ok then unplug the connector and ride for one day . IDK how long it "normally" takes to flicker or come on . If it does come on the problem is still in the wiring harness somewhere . If the light remains out , the problem is in the switch .
If you SuperGlue or do anything the the collar to stop it's movement you can either unplug ar replace the LOW fuel level sensor .
I have no input on the theory of operation of this . This same type of sensor exists in the oil pan of lots of vehicle. It sits horizontal & not vertical .
So , does anyone know exactly how these work ?
My bike came from Fla. I thought it was sun bleached . It showed some sun bleach evidence but it is still different from all the other lime green bikes.
BTW , docc you sure have a good memory !