gstallons

Sometimes the rotor can come loose and make a knocking sound . This is a very small chance though .

Which ones ? The answer will be probably not . To answer your fist question , the only thing you could do is pack a small amount of hi-temp wheel bearing grease into the roller bearing and run w / it . See my post above .

On the front wheels there are a combination of two of the same size or two different sizes .

If I were installing new wheel bearings , I would pop ( practice on the old ones ) the dust seal off and add a small amount of hi-temp wheel bearing grease to the cage/roller assy. and install the dust seal . When you install it , make sure the disturbed dust seal portion goes inside so it will be sure to leave the undisturbed portion to the elements.

You find a proper tool the size of the bearing o.d. and does not touch the dust seal . TAP the bearing into the bore until it is properly seated against the spacer or bottom of the bore .

I like the ish part..

Were these OEM parts ? Who makes the charging systems for Moto Guzzi ? There is www.euromotoelectrics.com in Denver , Co. You could buy parts and I mean parts from them .

It was a harangue....I should have included a disclaimer .

All ( well most ) motorcycle manufacturers produce what the consumer " wants " . These bikes are just like automobiles , take off the decals and you cannot discern the brand . Up until the early 80's you knew who built what ....You rode this bike for the way it made you feel with or without it's quirks . YOU were the one that owned , rode & worked on it . MG is still like that . Good or bad . Now people are posers who own a 180 hp crotch rocket , a dual purpose $15k bike that will never get off the road or a $25k bagger you ride on a road trip and park it til next year. These are the customers manufacturers are targeting for now.

No kiddin' . Mine look like they go to a farm implement .

It is a great bike , but a poor investment . Sorry to hear about your medical issues . Last but not least , thanks for joining our group and asking for our input .

What brand and model meter did you get ?

How much is this bike worth after you put fuel in the tank , start the bike and ride it 1 mile ? I would you recommend you put this into perspective. Then decide what you want to pay.

If you are not seeing any residue of any kind , I would suspect the quality of the brush material . Is there a starter / alternator repair facility near you ? You might be able to replace the brushes and get things back to normal .

Looks good to me. w/o holding it and looking at the cover to see how it is drilled and the capscrew going through the cover I would have to give it an A instead of A+ .Yes it would be a good idea to mill a flat ( provided there is enough material ) surface for the capscrew to mate against.

You can use an electrical grease ( not dielectric compound ) or Stabilant 22 on the contacts . The $tabilant 22 is a pricey liquid you apply to the contacts after you buff or use a pencil eraser to remove the corrosion or coating.

There were 2 design Marzocchi forks . They are easily identified by looking at the fork caps .

That knurled knob will turn w/assistance (AKA force) using pliers to get it loose. You will find out what is enough or too much force when it breaks or breaks loose .

Zooter , if your bike has a fuel line with a worm gear hose clamping on to a valve similar to the one in the center of the above photo then you have a non-electric shut off valve . The electric device to it's left is the low fuel sensor. You will receive a special message when it stops working ! Someone else can chime in as to when the transition from manual to electric petcock .

Uhhhh , there is one more drawback to the K-bike. You use the sidestand & when you start it the next morning you had better be ready for blue smoke to roll for the first 60 seconds..

Easy.....12v + ground = good power supply. If the fuel control solenoid is good ,it should work. If it doesn't you get to push. I would be shopping for a manual petcock. You will need to utilize it only when you will be removing the tank.

I use Mobil 1 synthetic . The lubrication gurus I deal with say a synthetic blend is no better than a standard petroleum oil. Full synthetic or standard oil.

Just like a Guzzi , they are for a specific rider. Die hard Beemer owners ostracized them because they were to replace the Boxer . Sales were poor so they didn't fare well. I had one ( K100RS ) for a long time & loved it . You will know this bike was very well engineered when you feel no wind on your grips because the mirrors cut the air and you feel nothing. Everything is perfectly neutral . You just have to get accustomed to no Steppenwolf , Bon Jovi, The Who , Grand Funk RR or even MC5 music in your head...maybe Kraftwerk ?

I would replace the connecting rod bolts as a safety precaution . It will be more work but you will need to look at the rod big ends to see if the one or both need to be resized after this. Did the bearings spin in the rod ?

There is one thing that all of these drops have in common..... You have never said the F-word ( or a whollotta words ) as loud as you do when this happens !