gstallons

I like that !

You can , I would ground them or use a clip-on spark tester on both wires to keep stray spark from giving you unwanted results .

I assume you did not install the release bearing dry ?

You should not warp the case with this weld job. He should weld , stop , weld , stop until it is finished. f you try to fix or weld up a large area you might warp something .

I would think nuclear fuel would be less expensive than this ? YEOW !

Please get / make some washers from shim stock where you have VERY little clearance when reassembling this

If you have no "free travel" in your clutch lever , the washer trick is not going to change things . Your master cylinder is going to give you X amount of fluid for the slave to move. If you add too much thickness the slave piston will bottom in the slave cylinder and will maintain constant pressure on the release mechanism. The metal surfaces the friction material contacts has to be perfect. If the discs are larger or smaller in circumference you will have a problem . Think of the o/s edge of a 33 1/3 LP . I hope you can . If the metal surface looks like this , the friction material will drag here and cause you problems.

Whew.. I would think about using a rotary burr and digging out some of this first. I don't know how others repaired their problem . If you do put a washer / spacer in place you want a select fit so this won't happen again .

Glad you are here . Now , start posting !

I am using non-insulated butt connectors with heat shrink now. I see where this is the authorized/approved method of Ford Motor Co. I started a few months ago & I don't think I will do anything else now .

If I plug noid lights into the fuel injector connectors , turn the ignition switch into the run position , these noid lights will light up for a period of time ?

Keep in mind , not all CF products are created equal . I bought some side covers off eBay & they looked like they were made in somebody's back yard .

Uhhhh . I second that feeling .

The habit of holding the clutch lever in at a stop , will wear the release bearing more than not holding it in at a stop . It is a good idea to return to neutral when at a stop .

IF you can get a cleaner with Techron , do it .

Sounds pretty good . I am going to check into it .

Do you think you can disassemble & reassemble this slave cylinder w/o needing any replacement parts ? ANY foriegn material can cause a leak so bad you can't keep fluid in the hydraulic system . The rubber components might be o.k. and you could get by with a clean-up.

Where / How did you come across this ?

Uh oh . Is this the first leak ?

Is this come with a part # & place to buy ?

I would rather have it right .

This is not imperative but it is a good safety practice.

I don't see any talk as of late discussing bike lifts . Have any of you purchased one or have one you prefer ? $$$ is not important but I don't want to get something I will regret . Thanks for your input !

I have done this to repair problems with a low voltage feed to the stater solenoid or starter relay on all kinds of equipment . I have done this to keep the current off of the switches on headlamps too .

LubriPlate DS-ES . Sorry , that was $112.00 for 36 tubes .