gstallons

I know some hardcore gun handlers and they said if you hate your guns , use WD-40 on them .

phil , if you're talking about the throttle body screws that hold the fuel injectors to the throttle body , WOW , That stuff was assembled with the understanding that it is now an assembly never to be touched. I had the fuel injectors rebuilt on both my bikes and wondered if those screws were coming out or not. No Loctite on NEW screws goin back together . I use a 1/4" stubby metric hex head from SnapOn . No Harbor Freight on something this critical .

He ordered all of his out of Ohio ?

I remember that term from a j Geils Band LP !

1 minute and 2 seconds was enuf for me ! Great ! Any one that can play the lickin' stick like that....... I'm all in

There is/was this contractor that is the best in the Tri-state area . I happen to be the man he trusts to take care of his mechanical needs. He tests everything he uses/works with . He found that the Robertson head fasteners were superior to Torx AFA spinning out , the lifespan of the tool bit , etc.

Yes , that is black oxide . It does nothing to prevent rusting . When you look at elaborate torque tables it gives a value for them , plated , SS and IDK if there is one more or not ?

Sounds like you have been there ? I guess I left out the torch / heat gun step ? Caterpillar uses these EXCLUSIVELY and they spin out frequently. Torx is a beautiful looking fastener BUT , it is like aluminum fasteners on BMW automotive engines . Why ?

Hmmm. That is probably the tool used on a British bike.

Every hub I've removed a rotor from has been a chore. A GOOD heat gun , professional quality sockets , sometimes a monster c-clamp providing downward pressure and a vow to never do this again , again and new torx fasteners . These should be available at Fastenal . I have lost my paper catalog so I can't post a part # .

Two things are bad about these brake rotor fasteners. A poor quality Button Head Torx The incorrect Loctite applied to the fasteners at the assy. plant. These fasteners are attached w/the philosophy "these things are not comin' loose" . Why ? ambulance chasers .

Check these fasteners 4 Xs in the next 12 months to make sure they stay tight !

Take off what you can get off ! I think I used studs on mine to make it easier.

Did you like that ?

No , I am saying you need to take someone with you that can give you an objective opinion . Think : Oh , I met this wonderful man and I think I am in love, the only bad thing is he drives a 1968 Volkswagen Beetle . Your best friend says , uuhhhhh.

Let me say .... It doesn't look like Tom Cruise on that bike

Yeah , it don't take long

If you are doing this to your Greenie , lots of luck. This color should be called chameleon .

Mmmmm. When did this happen? Now , hypnotize your friend and ask him "what ALL have you done to this before it started this problem ? /

1 check throttle body to cylinder manifold boots .

IDK and I doubt that is Tom Cruise on the bike

A "good deal" is when both parties are happy. With that being said , I have two (deceased) friends that bought what they thought were great priced collector cars . They paid a premium for some junk and I mean junk. They got hammered so bad I kept my mouth shut . If you're happy , I'm happy is the way I handled that situation . When you go to buy , take someone w/you that is level headed and knows what it is worth . If you are selling and someone is trying to low ball you , thank them for their time and cut them short and go back in the house and wait on the next buyer.

The DNTFL-6 rod end and the TR6-150 rod will be what you will probably go with . IDK what I was trying with the other parts . They would be considered ball joints . I guess I was trying to use them in place of the original style . I try a LOT of stuff before I am satisfied . One time I bought over $100 worth of grease couplings before I was satisfied with what I wanted .

Well , I found the invoice : DMCS-6 ball joint DIN metric DNTFL-6 rod end teflon race narrow housing TR6-150 rod , threaded M6X1.0 DMCSL-6 ball joint FIN metric I just bought what i thought I was going to need and then used what I wanted after I got everything here . Just punch in the part #s until you find what you want . You can reuse your r.h. thread rod end if you want to save a couple of dollars. This invoice is from 08-2011 so I hope these part #s will be good . HTH , gene

I looked for the invoice and couldn't find it . Just go through the catalog and find rod ends w/6mm l.h. thread and then look for threaded rod that has opposing threads . You will cut the rod about the same length as the factory rod. If I can find the invoice I will come back and post part #s