gstallons

Please explain which bolts you are talking about using ? Stainless steel does not like anything . It needs anti-seize lubricant or it galls the threads when you tighten .

I was not sure if that was a Tn. colloquialism , something philosophical or both ?

That front wheel appears to have ground clearance ?

Good question about the aluminum flywheel .Contact a machine shop for help and explain about the flywheel history of these bikes .

you"re welcome

You can still install the studs to make yourself happy .

docc , could you explain your last sentence ?

Maybe that is where Bitubo gets theirs ?

Use a bottoming tap if available to clean up these threads . Use new fasteners w/anti-seize so you will not have this trouble again. On the holes with damaged threads you can install studs on these holes.* Make it look good and put studs opposite of these to give it symmetry . You can make your own studs w/threaded rod. It is cheaper in the long run . Used flanged nus & capscrews too ! * The reason being , you will be pulling on these threads rather than turning/twisting of a capscrew .

That's a good feelin' !

What is a "special " battery charger ? What does it do that a conventional charger or tender does not or cannot do ?

You can Google " petroleum on brake parts" and see what you find out . Prove it to yourself . Go buy a brake caliper rebuild kit for a brake caliper & a fresh can of WD-40 . Let them soak for a couple of days . Then you will keep petroleum based fluids from brake parts . NAPA sells a Raybestos brake assembly lube you can use when working on your brake calipers.

The noises could be lots of things. The nut is important because it provided a good connection between the solenoid and motor portion of the starter . I didn't know about the starter noises ?

I am sorry for not getting in on this brake conversation til now... I do not know if WD-40 contains ANY petroleum distillates , products or not. If so , please get some rubber brake components and soak them in it for a day or so ...let us know what happens . Brake rubber parts are NOT compatible with petroleum products , period .

You realize the missing nut is the reason the starter was not working ?

Where is the nut that goes on the solenoid to starter motor cable ?

Look up Rue Ring cotter pins on Google and see if one of these will work for you ? You will have to drill a hole in the pivot pin for this . I have new computers and I am not smart enough to copy & paste yet .

I know what you were talking about ! This 30kv + is a real "jolt per kilovolt" ! It takes me about 10 mins. to recover from this...

Temperature hot ?

Why are you selling these parts ?

I talked to my old electronics instructor / best friend Gerald Wells to verify this ...after one hour of revue and lecture , you get the explanation . We started with copper core " high tension " leads , narrow streets in Germany , burn time , then to spark plug electrode composition and so on .

That shi**y engine paint ain't exclusive to Scura models. I don't know if it was a primer , preparation or paint problem but it sure looks crummy . You can do a search ( this site ) to see how to correctly remedy this paint problem ... I do remember someone using H/D crinkle finish black to match the color & texture .

A spark plug wire this short will not give you the necessary resistance to serve it's purpose. This R will keep the arc time minimal to reduce wear on the center / ground electrodes on your spark plug.

Uh.....you are not supposed to ask this question .

This is a subjective # but around 5k ohms per ft. is normal for ( as we know them ) spark plug wires . You will be looking for resistance and not infinity or open .