gstallons

I don't kmow how I wrecked my edit but I will try again . You will need to disassemble this and apply lube to all splined areas . FIRST you must remove all rust and clean the areas because rust is a great abrasive . I would apply lube to the release fingers and clean and lubricate the release bearing with a good disc brake wheel bearing grease .

Can you say more about that? I mean, would you basically spray the whole inside of the flywheel and the transmission input gear? And do you mean anti-seize paste - like the silver (or copper) stuff you put on bolt threads? My BMW specifies a Staburags (NBU 30 PTM) grease for the splines, which is so thick and sticky you have to brush it on. But the splines on the BMW are tiny in comparison to the Guzzi splines. I have some of that. I just put a clutch back together yesterday, but didn't lube it. It's easy-access now... any extra advice appreciated. .

Docc , where did you get this part # 8T2T-14B192-BA ? Do you have an application for this relay ?

I have access to Ford / Motorcraft part info & I will look into it in the a.m. . I will post what I find .

Hansson , the flywheel looks awful . It should be ( if at all possible ) replaced . This may not fix your noise but the teeth are in bad shape . When this is done you should use a dry film graphite spray or a good anti-seize lube on the splines on anything with splines . The clutch release bearing (as shown in parts diagram) is a Torrington bearing and appears to be where the sound is coming from . The part # is 12 08 70 01 in the 2002 V11 LeMans parts catalogue .

What did you expect ?

When this discussion reaches half time , what is the best relay to put in each position ?

Brother , I feel for you .

The one constant scraping sound that exists when the clutch is pulled in , is (in my opinion) the throwout bearing .The other sound(s) I am not sure of . I am sure you will have to disassemble the clutch to find the problems.

You don't .

Get it . PERIOD .

We have the freedom of choice......

Looks good . Get it !

No....none at all !

You can but , there is no "give" whatsoever with this type of setup .

When you mount this link , these two mounting bolts need to be tightened with normal rider weight on the bike .

The rubber in the bushings twists . The sleeve is to be clamped with the bolt into it's retainer .

I mean real exaggerated angles . The minor adjustments we are making w/the (longer) shift arm extension and changes in rod length are not going to cause any harm.

I was throwing this out for general knowledge or discussion . Linkages with same lever lengths should have the same relationship on their shafts. i.e. they should appear as a parallelogram from the side . You will get the same input / output from lever movement .

Make sure you get a Roper Plate, two pan gaskets and hose clamp for the oil change.

That is terrible and sad news. Sorry to hear .

A long time ago , I used Channel Master Tuner Cleaner. I don't know what is the best product now ?

And you don't know where we would be w/o you and your site .

I am gonna have to look at my bike's linkage before I blab any more .

I discussed this (lever, linkage efficiency) last year with this older mechanic about brake levers on drum brake mechanisms . He told me , the best brake effort is when the pulled brake lever is at 90 degrees when fully applied . I do not know how much is helped or hurt when shift linkage is lengthened / shortened ? 6 mm of length will make a BIG difference of lever position .