gstallons

Kiwi....chime in and interpret !

Uhhhh , you ned to hook up a manual gauge to this before something expen$ive happens . Remove the sender and take it to a good auto parts store and buy a manual gauge with an adapter to fit your sender . Then reassemble it and start it up to see what hot idle pressure is .

Unfortunately , these plugs should not look like this . I would think the oil is getting past either the intake valves or the piston rings . The least expensive step would have a competent shop to disassemble the heads and check the intake valve guides for too much wear . I do not think these bikes use a valve stem seal . You would have to check a parts manual. If this checks o.k. , then it is time to re-ring the bike . If you hone the cylinders , you can hone with a ball type hone for just a few seconds because these are a nickasil coated bore.

If you loosen the banjo bolt at the clutch maste rcylinder , does the lever move any better ? This will test the clutch master / slave cylinder hose .

What is a " muchroomy movement" ?

Amen ! His smile says it all !

I don't know how much is too expensive ? If the UFI will fit , I see no reason you can't use it .

Oh yeah... I would like to contact him and communicate w/him .

Mine came w/the PC .. I really messed up my bike when I first got it . I tried to adjust everything and got it way out... I wanted to burn the bike and toss it off the bluff @ Columbus Park .... After adjusting it properly everything was perfect. I do not see how someone could possibly ride this in stock form w/o the PC ?

That is an understatement. I wonder who installed the Earls forks on the bike ?

Well the E Buell info is incredible. H-D was a bad marriage with Buell....I will leave it alone..

The June issue of Motorcyclist magazine has the usual segment called "Me & My Bike" .. This month has a bike owned by Frank Yang in Fullerton,Ca. Well it is his 2002 MG LeMans. Apparently he has the usual......no .... read it for yourself, it is a good read. I hope he joins V11lemans.com....

WooHoo !

You own / have access to a 3d printer ?

I assume you will do both cylinder heads. I would think .25 mm is the maximum you would want removed. You should do both heads the same amount. Remove only enough material to get a flat surface .

Well.........like battery acid on clean metal .

If you are going to buy new rotors.......make sure you get cast iron rotors. They are 10 times better than stainless steel rotors . The only down side is they oxidize , and I mean oxidize .

Hmmmmm...it was my 87 SE then ?

Make sure the check valve goes in with the new hose and not discarded with the old hose .....

That has been my experience.... rubber is for petroleum or coolant and sometimes both....unfortunately you need to find a hose that will work with petroleum or buy the factory ( crummy) vent hose.... the hose you have might last a year or two .

I can send you a pic of a heater hose that has been exposed to oil ..... It expands to about 2 Xs the diameter and gets very sticky..IDK how long this line/hose will last.

No..... you should be able to match it up at a good auto parts store or industrial equipment store . When you reinstall , put a smear of silicone sealant around the flat portion of the block-off to aid in sealing .

I welded a 27 mm hex nut to a short 3/8'' extension .

Please explain "weld up that darn manhole cover wrench" ?

You need to connect a manual gauge to the port that the oil pressure switch is screwed in ..let it idle until the engine is fully warm and check the reading.