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gstallons

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Everything posted by gstallons

  1. Everything looks good except for the Mr. Magoo headlights .
  2. Bjorn , I see you left 1/2 of the driveshaft on the final drive. Do you know how to index the two shaft parts when you slide them back together ?
  3. To whom it may concern : who ever removes this driveshaft , make sure there are paint marks on both the slip yoke and main tube of the shaft . We got into this discussion some time ago about timing a driveshaft tube/slip yoke .
  4. I like the seller calling himself "custodian" .
  5. If the fiting is toward the driveshaft tube , it is indexed correctly.
  6. Well $24.00 is a Dept. of Defense price for this part......like most all motorcycle parts. I remember in the early 80s MXA magazine price out a CR250 dirt bike in individual parts... a $1800 bike was about $5000 parted out.
  7. czakky , unless you are a machinist and want to make an improved bolt , you should take stephano's advice . If you want to proceed , you should make a bushing from steel or stainless steel because a brass bushing would be too soft to ever keep the torque of the bolt. $24.00 + frt.. seems (outrageou$) a reasonable price after all.
  8. Go to Fastenal and buy a button head socket head cap screw . I don't know the length so you will have to decide .....
  9. What Dlaing did looks pretty good. Whatever route you take , be sure you lubricate things when you reassemble & check frequently .
  10. I gripped the driveshaft at the pinion and still could feel slack . You have to have backlash between the ring & pinion gears.
  11. I removed my rear wheel to see how much backlash there is in the rear end. Rotating the driveshaft back & forth , there is an amount , not much but there is an amount. Did you forget part # 25 in the diagram .Is it a shim or gasket ?
  12. Something is NOT right. You should be able to feel slack in the driveshaft L/R rotation ....Any is better than tha zipper noise on the video . Yuck ! look it over to see what might be wrong. If you think you have gone as far as you can go w/o messing it up.. Take the parts to a good mechanic for help.
  13. You need to disassemble this and lay it out on a bench in order to see what you have left out or out of place.
  14. When you reassemble this unit....you should be able to feel clearance in the left to right rotation of the pinion shaft. If there is no clearance , you have problems !
  15. It is not too lazy to run it a while to see..keep the parts where they can be found and be prepared..
  16. The "noise" ? The "growl" maybe..
  17. Used ones come up occasionally....keep an eye out. IDK if any other models interchange or not . please feel free to explain how your low speed slide .
  18. Things looked good until the last picture ....
  19. You don't have a slide hammer to remove them ? Surely a m/cycle shop or garage can remove/install them for you .
  20. The part # om the o/s of the box is faded. The packing list with part #s is for an Aprillia/Triumph with a part # or DWG # 99743-11
  21. No....Hylomar is one of the best gaket dressings ever made. I just use the Loctite in place of gaskets whenever possible. You just have to use it on similar metals.. e.g. aluminum on aluminum . Sanitary surfaces & a good bead on the surface.
  22. I would go with the Loctite 515 gasket elimintor.. Not too expensive , you can go together ( w/no oils) w/o a gasket . The Yamabond is a good choice too. Practice on some spare parts before doing this. You need a good application w/just enogh to ooze out of the joining surfaces .
  23. Loctite make an anaerobic sealer...it is good on these applications too. Make sure all oils are off of the gaskets, gasket surfaces, etc....
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