gstallons

I did .

Do your forks have a 19 mm nut in the center of the cap w/a small adjuster screw in the center ? If so , it is the early style fork. If it is the other style it is a later model fork. I have a complete fork leg you can use/have as a guide to reassemble with.

You can fix all of your problems with an Oberon fuel cap. look for them on eBay .

Stainlees steel fasteners are just that , stainlees steel . These fasteners have no ability to lubricate . All plated faseners have an ability to "lubricate" as they are being installed/removed. Any time you use a stainlees fastener you will want to use a lubricant , anti-sieze being the first choice. This prevents thread galling and prevents BIG problems .

MotoInternational was stocking them . That is where mine came from .

You need to apply anti-sieze compound to SS fasteners every time you use them.

Oh, it is wonderful . You will see where the leak starts and travels to . No ?s whatsoever as to where it is ! Then you gan go about attacking your problem. Use any gasket sealant w/a gasket except silicone sealant. I use dyes/UV light on any fluid leak .

The pics are too close ( for me ) to tell what angle it is and what I am looking at . Do you have access to engine oil dye and a UV light ?

If the socket head is too far gone for a Torx or fractional Allen head wrench , you can drill the head off the screw . Us a 8 or 10 mm drill bit to remove the head. After you get the housing off you can remove the rest with pliers .

This plate performs a similar function as baffles do in in a large fluid tank. They prevent fluid from sloshing from side to side and or back and forth. This plate slows down the fluids ability from sloshing up in a corner or one end of the crankcase under acceleration or deceleration. Believe me , you need this . Plus , you see in the picture the oil filter has a hose clamp holding it and preventing it from backing off. DO THIS TOO ! That clamp costs le$$ than a rebuild !

Make sure the undersize bearings are available before purchasing... That price seems to be a lot !

Somewhere in my clutter , I own a copy of Guzziology. If i can find it , it might help with the interchange of these c/shafts. Does anyone else have a copy of this book ?

Don't worry.....Every Moto Guzzi is a transitional model !

Onibaka, You are industrious and tenacious. You will get this engine back together and ride again . Good luck. BTW what do you do for a living ?

Contact Agostini in Mandello del Lario , Italy or Teo Lamers ( Netherlands?)for price on used or new parts. I don't know of other large Moto Guzzi dealers in Europe. Be SURE before you purchase parts to make sure they are correct !

Good luck.... I hope you can get the part(s) and get it back running !

WOW ! We are sorry to hear . Do you have access to any used parts or engines ?

Yep !

You do know how to remove the fuel line quick (they can be quick or not quick)connect fitings ? Push the hose against the fitting , push the white part against the hose , while holding these two parts together , remove the line.

To grease the rear joint , No ! To grease the front joint , another story .

OK ? Don't know what to say now !

Roger that. Good plan. Thanks! I put 1/2 bottle of UV dye in my bike a few months back in order to locate the leak. The dye isn't showing up through the bell housing hole. I was hoping that the leak was from the gasket above the oil pan, but it isn't. Maybe I just don't have enough dye in there, or perhaps it's already stained the inside of the bell housing as it leaks down through to the vent hole. Feel free to merge the threads, or delete mine, as they seem to be fairly similar. I'll post findings as my bike gets taken apart. I'd do it myself if there was any chance of the temps getting back into the 40's in the next few months. Probably won't get back into the 70's for at least 4 months here. Ken Are you using a UV light & glasses (w/the dye) to find this leak ?

Remove one of the pads and take it to the dealership . They can match them up for you .

Docc, before you tear it down , you should add a dye to the engine oil . Ride it for a while .... then tear it down . You can the use a UV light to see exactly where the oil leak is coming from.

My Chiro does some PM to my wrists and elbows to keep the Carpal Tunnel Syndrome away.... I would look like a gargoyle (or at least have the posture) if I didn't go to one.