gstallons

I have ( I think) an old rod if you want it. Are you sure you properly replaced the o-rings under the rocker arm stands for the oil leak? I would fix the engine/clutch noise before spending $$ on the Roper Plate . The replacement of all the relays will be a good idea as preventive maintenance. These can be purchased at an automotive parts store . Take one with you so they can look through a buyer's guide for a match. Some of these relays have more terminals than others , so check all of them in the fuse / relay panel .

If you do go forward with this................There are o-rings under the rocker arm stands that need to be replaced . If you see oil that is between the head/cylinder mating surface that is where the leak is coming from .

My bike is a naked Sport so I can't answer the ? . It might be in your best interest to replace them with insulated spade connectors to make sure you never have this problem.

I don't think you will benefit yourself or the bike from replacing the springs w/shims. If it will make you feel better doing it , go ahead and do it.

Did you hit the ceiling when this happened ?

Do you have a lubricant supplier / vendor in your area ? You could give them these specs. and they could (if you talk to an intelligent person ) fix you up ! I don't know what brand lubricants you normally use or I would call some of my vendors .

Sorry. That does not help much in the evaluation of your problem .

Sargent does an excellent job... I do prefer the looks of the OEM saddle though ...

Excellent photos !

What is wrong with your seat ?

you talk like you have never squandered money before ?

NooooooH !

You can look on their website n see . It is worth it just to have them cleaned n matched flow.

Contact www.lindertech.com 1-888-809-3835 for fuel injector service.They can recondition your injectors and flow rate them to make sure they match . Is the fuel line connection ( that is leaking) held on w/a worm type clamp or a crimp type fitting ?

What is the part # of the electronic flasher ?

We are having a difficult time with the interpretations . It is critical that all parties understand each other . Do you know someone near you that is fluent in English?

Battery Tender is the only way to go !

You should (if it is available) buy straight gasoline and install Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer . Leave the oil out of the cylinders. If there are no pets around , I would put sticky traps around to catch the mice with .

Make sure the fuel tank is LOW on fuel to make it easier to handle...also , have a helper for extra hands and a good flashlight to aid in removal and installation . I use a cooking spray on the i.d. of rubber parts to help sliding them on if you have trouble .

If there is no noise when the clutch lever is out , that is normal. If it is noisy when the lever is pulled in , that is normal too .

Well....... I'm typing w/o glasses . 6 ft Channelocks... Hmmm.

The tank comes OFF . You don't want to try holding it up while you work on the filter. The fuel tank shut-off might be hard to turn , so use 6' Channelock pliers to loosen the shutoff knob .

The small hoses under the tank , you can use a vacuum tee to connect the two together to simplify reinstallation. One is a fuel drain if you overfill and the other is (probably) a tank vent.

Yes..you do have to remove the tank. Get plenty of practice. You will be doing this often for one reason or another .

Doesn't sound too good . Keep us up to date with things !