gstallons

Ground down ??? Are you sure you can get undersize bearings ? Make sure you have them in hand before any grinding takes place....

Scud , since you are not worrying about getting the bolts out ( of the damaged wheel ) but the rotor off , you can use a drill bit as the same size of the hex of the capscrew . Drill down into the screw about 3/8''. Then take the tool and try removing the bolt . This will twist off the head of the bolt. Do this ( as long as it is successful ) to the remaining bolts . You will be able to lift the rotor off the wheel .

OMG..... tube type amp freaks.. I should have known !

I think he said it is a Sachs & he put the original spring back on .

B.T.W. Do not discard anything from this bike unless it is totally demolished . try to categorize everything and box it up w/part #s if possible. You never know how valuable this will become to you and others in the future .

Keep the fuel tank and seat on and you will never know the difference .

sp , is there any reason you can't keep the factory harness and have an add-on harness for your own additions ?

I can think of no reason it would not. It would be dumb not to use the same components on all models . Maybe different gear ratios IDK ? Is this what you are after ?

Are there any OLD motorcycle , go-kart or small engine shops in your area ? They will have inner cable repair kits to help you . You can Google throttle repair kits too. Looking at you pics you can tell the edge of the outer portion is/was the cause of the wear. We need to figure a repair for this .

As for the chrome cylinders , could they be redone with Nikasil instead ?

This advice is for all readers.... Make sure you use shakeproof washers on ALL ground wires / cables PERIOD . If you don't know what they are GOOGLE them and start using them . First and foremost place the ground wire at the starter mounting bolt or as close as possible to the starter. Then you want to link ( if possible ) all grounds together. To compliment emry's post . You were made for Moto Guzzi , it was not made for you .

I use 15/40 oil & don't use the clutch after I get going. Make sure the shift lever pivot shaft is not rusty and binding . I extended the shift lever arm to get VERY short throws on the shifter.

Again..... I am sure you can show all of your legal papers to the former owner / prison inmate and he will acquiesce or he might snap and carry out pent-up frustrations on YOU . You might want to "loop" a cell phone w/you at all times when your new best friend gets out .

We are glad you joined and are now a member . Let the posts begin .

You have just confirmed the integrity of the circuit. You have a problem . Remove the oil filter cover and see if the oil filter is loose and if the oil filter o-ring is or has blown out .

Check your battery voltage tomorrow before you start the bike.... it should be around 12.65 v .

SeaFoam is an excellent additive for the fuel . Google www.pure-gas.org and run straight gasoline w/o ethanol in your fuel instead of the regular mess that is sold .

Contact the seller and ask him to tell you about the repair history and let him know you want to be happy with your purchase . You want him to be frank w/you and tell you about any concerns or needs this bike will have. If you are not familiar w/clip-ons your arms and hands will get extremely tired ! Keep us posted on your road trip w/plenty of pics . I hope any members on your route will be available if you need them .

Check to verify it is a mechanical problem . With the engine off , twist the throttle to 1/2 turn and release . It should snap shut. Do this 3 or 4 times to verify it is o.k. Then do this with 3/4 throttle and then full throttle . If this all turns out to work o.k. your problem is not mechanical .

Google high performance brake fluids and look at boiling points . Then make your choice . Yes the V11 has some exciting rear brakes ! Looking into a cast iron rotor might be a good idea also . Stainless does do a less than stellar job as a brake rotor .

This is beginning to sound questionable . #1 verify the rocker arm adjusting nut did not get out of adjustment , #2 verify the rocker arm adjusting nut did not get out of adjustment . If this is o.k. go to the next step #3 use a dial indicator to see where the excess clearance is coming from . Do this or have it done and report your findings .

If you suspect it is a cam lobe failure , get a dial indicator and set it up to check the lift of the cam lobe . Check both sides and compare what you find . They should be within 0.005" .

Fastenal is a good place to go . If you need anything extraordinary , it is special order !

You can remove both valve covers and see how much of the adjusting screw is exposed above the rocker arm on the other side . If they are close or the same after adjusting , you are o.k.

Robin, you need to tighten the socket ( Allen ) head bolts that clamp the driveshaft to the diff. shaft 1/6 turn at a time until all slack is gone .Then I would go 1/4 turn more. Make sure you are making progress while you are doing this because it could be worn too much to help any .