gstallons

yeah I have noticed that if the oil gets towards low the light flicks on... are you saying they fry the big ends cos of it? cant be that common never heard of big ends, mains or small end for that matter... You will learn lot$ after this baby gets back together. When you are getting it fixed get a Roper plate from Pete Roper . Your tuition is going to get expensive for your education. If you dont know how things work, get come service manuals, Google & Youtube or ask the person fixing your bike to explain what goes on inside your engine..... p.s. information is going to be true,false or a combination.....it is up to you to decide what is real.

You are not working on it ?

Once this cap. is charged there will be no more current or voltage flow. There would be no reason to do this.

Swap relay #3 with another relay and see if the problem stays or follows that relay. If the problem stays with position #3 the problem is in that circuit. If the problem follows that relay , replace the relay. These relays are not exotic and can be purchased at a NAPA or similar auto parts store.

You will have to understand one thing..........this will feel this good EVERY time you roll off on this bike.

PDI is a Pre-Delivery Inspection. All new vehicles are given this prior to selling. This is to make sure all fluids are present , all fasteners are tightened and it is in an operable condition. The dealer is given $ to do this prior to being sold. You can do this yourself as if you were going to go off on a long trip and you wanted to be sure nothing was going to fall off the bike.

Use the Mighty-Vac with NO petroleum base grease anywhere around brake parts. The teflon tape (or liquid pipe thread sealant) is a smart idea too. remove the rear wheel and inspect rear wheel bearings n grease driveshaft

Silicone and paint do not mix...... Silicone and oxygen sensors do not go together. Most automobile service publications donot want silicone going through an engine because it will kill an oxygen sensor.

Interior lighting v sunlight will give you a different appearance/shade.

Amen......... I use Motorcraft Electrical Grease on electrical connections. Silicone Dielectric compound on spark plugboots and heat-sink grease on parts that mount to a base with a heat-sink mount. People will probably not heed your message even though it is true.

Clean everything up with Brakekleen and dry it off. Sprinkle baby powder all over the suspect area. Start the bike and let it idle for a few minutes. The leak should show up .

The item with the circle is the oil press. switch and it has an adapter for the manual gauge. The item within the rectangle is a crankshaft position sensor that needs a screw in the top portion of the sensor. It is capable of leaking too. You can use silicone sealer to reseal it.

Before you do anything...........remove the linkage from the shift lever and make sure it pivots freely....e.g. pull the lever up and it should drop with no resistance. If it hangs or will not move , your problem is in the lever pivot.

What is your opinion on different types of brake fluids ? DOT3 or 4 v DOT 5 (silicone) fluid ......... I am thinking of changing to DOT 5 in the brake hydraulic sysytem(s).

March last year had only 2 days that were under 70 degrees. This year is a little different........

Here is a link for everyone to use (in the US) to find ethanol free gasoline ! http://pure-gas.org

Make sure said part is COMPLETELY degreased before you start baking ! p.s. When you replace these bearings , remove one of the seal covers and pack the inside with grease and put the cover back in place. Put this side to the inslde of the swingarm in case you boogered this part up in the process. If you want , you can practice on the old bearings.

The best thing is to use a dry film graphite lube spray from NAPA , LPS , etc. on this setup . Clean these pins and spray on them allowing them to dry before reinstalling.

Get on their website and see. If it doesn't say , contact a salesman .

Are you referring to the caliper pistons? You will have to remove the caliper (leave the brake hose attached) to inspect these. After ypu get the caliper free from the rotor , remove the brake pads , push one piston in and this should push the opposite piston out . If it doesn't presss the brake pedal a couple of times to extend the piston. Stop when you see a clean surface on the piston.Use Brakekleen to remove all dust,etc. from this piston.You can use a shop towel to wipe off dirt. When you are satisfied with this , push that piston back into it's bore til it is bottomed out . Do the same to the opposite piston. I do not use ANY petroleum base products on brake parts. It is a good idea to look at the pads to see if they need replacing. Make sure the friction material of the pad is facing the rotor. When you are reinstalling these parts, make sure you are doing this correctly and tighten all fasteners. Try your brakes on the bike stand and not on the road. You do not want to hear the sound of parts falling off your bike !

Huh ?

Why don't you have these cylinders replated ?

I have both styles and like the flip front if you are trying to talk to someone w/o removing the helmet. I know this will be the most expensive route but go try them ALL before you buy.You can save $$$ buying online but you cannot try them on. I thought I wanted an Arai until I tried it on. It just didn't fit as well as I wanted . Bought a Shoei instead . Buy what fits you and remember " how much is your head worth?" .

You can Google "torque specifications for metric fasteners" for most of your needs. I would paste the link but something is keeping it from being able to paste

$31.50 is better than N/A !