gstallons

There are different "grits" of Scotchbrite pads. You can use the mildest to clean up the piston surface. Any pitting or scoring means it's time to replace it. When you have cleaned the piston , clean the caliper bore with a fine bristle wire brush to get all dirt , debris , etc. out of it . Clean everything up with Brakekleen and use a brake asembly fluid to put it back together. A firm thumb pressure will be needed to bottom out the piston. Reassemble and bleed.

Do you own a torque wrench ? You have to torque thes fasteners and do it in a criss-cross pattern or you will have more trouble.

Like for every 1 Krone of value , you pay 1.7 Krone in tax ? Is that the same on automobiles ?

yeah...........do something about the purple mufflers. I don't know what the PO was thinking ?

The job is done. Thanks to the others who donated. I hope they (the head guards) get there in time .

You should let me ride it this spring/summer to make sure there are no problems w/the bike. I would hate for you to be stranded on the side of the road , etc.......

The Coppa has the best paint scheme of all the bikes !

Good news !

Do you have Onibaka"s address ?

It's Dec 14 and 7 days until the end of the world , or 11 days to Christmas. Someone chimed in about getting Onibaka some head guards . I'm in , who else wants to participate ? We need an address, etc. for them to get there. Speak up "Time's a wastin" * ! * Snuffy Smith

No (3Xs) way !

Make them look "used", send them seperately and put them in Christmas boxes. I will give some $ also. I don't know if gifts are taxed through customs or not. p.s. I returned some stuff ( about $300.00) to Agostini's , duty was going to eat up the value of the parts. I told Agostini to tell them to throw it in the trash.

The only reason you would disconnect the neg lead first is because if your wrench were to touch the neg battery terminal to the frame or a ground you would do no harm. Do this with the positive lead and you have firework$ !

NO petroleum products of any kind are to be used around brake hydraulic parts. Block the 3 free pistons in the retracted position and use the hydraulic pressure of the brake lever to push the piston out. You can use Scotchbrite pad to clean the caliper piston , then remove the dirt with a brakekleen spray and reassemble with a brake assembly lube.

Do you own a volt/ohm meter ? Unplug the sensor and check the sensor terminals for continuity. If it shows reistance it is good. This is a thermistor ( a resistor that changes value w/temp changes) and you can check it by placing it in a refrigerator and checking the r value and then warming it up w/a hair dryer and checking it.

Onibaka......these sliders (cylinder head guards) are very important to have on your bike. Look for a used pair on eBay or any bike salvage yards on the internet in your area. Ride on !

Roy, your thoughts are correct. A roller bearing is made to handle radial loads only. They do not handle axial loads very well or for very long. A taper roller bearing will handle all loads with very little wear . A taper roller bearing is made to be adjusted for clearance or preload. A roller bearing is "as is" . They (along with any other bearings) will not survive w/o any grease . This appears to be the caes w/the Guzzi steering head. FWIW, GM products until ca. 1960s had adjustable roller bearings in the front wheel hubs. They were a JOKE .

There is an old hot rodder's maxim. "Speed costs , how fast can you afford to go?".....

Can you post some pictures and explain what all was done to complete the job ?

What color is this bike ?

Because that is why taper roller bearings are in the steering head. You can adjust all of the clearance out of them. There is no removal of clearance in a roller bearing. You get into axial load on a roller bearing and it will wear out quicker than you want. It is just stupidity that caused no or not enough grease applied to these bearings to cause the wear.

Make sure the shift lever is NOT stuck. Loosen the shift lever pivot bolt to see if it is the problem. You might just have to remove and lubricate it.

I am sure there are good welders that are members of this forum. They should chime in. If not Google or look in the Yellow Pages for a welding shop around town .

The mirrors on mine go into the 10mm threaded hole that is in the clamp that holds the levers on the bars.