gstallons

Make sure the shift lever is NOT stuck. Loosen the shift lever pivot bolt to see if it is the problem. You might just have to remove and lubricate it.

I am sure there are good welders that are members of this forum. They should chime in. If not Google or look in the Yellow Pages for a welding shop around town .

The mirrors on mine go into the 10mm threaded hole that is in the clamp that holds the levers on the bars.

The girl is hot. The bike is "about as good as it gets" !

What type of fluid were you using in the gearbox ?

The 2003 bike listed on the site looks like it would be ( in my opinion) a better deal. Would the dealer supply you with the PO's name & # ?

Uh..... I am not sure you should be able to do that ? Have you gone over ALL the bolts mounting everything to everything.

You do have the proper fluid and proper amount of fluid in the transmission ?

The setup on JBatisdsa's shifter appears to be "THE fix". If mine ( when) fails , I am gonna repair it like this.

there would be NO give whatsoever in the rod.

Yeow ! Beautiful part. Dept. of Defense price. Elastomeric ( I suppose) bushings are the way to go. Get it.

A little secret...........by replacing the cap I pared 16 oz. unsprung weight and reduced my pit stop by 30 seconds !

The O2 sensor is located where the engineers thought it would be best located. The sensor protudes into the exhaust stream 1. to get a complete sensor flow of ex. gases across the sensor tip. 2. the sensor has to somewhere . 3. You could weld a bung opposite from the other sensor and install an O2 sensor on that side and leave the wiring disconnected. The best set-up would be an O2 sensor in each ex. pipe dedicated to each cylinder for sampling that cylinder thus causing the need for individual triggered and pulse-width injectors.

It would best to Google for this information. It would take longer to explain and you would eventually Google or Youtube it any way. You can look a Phoenix brand reverse bleeder systems or one that applies air pressure to the top of the master cylinder reservoir to force fluid through the system in the normal direction. I do not reverse bleed any brake system w/ABS..........BAD things happen when contaminated brake fluid goes backward thru the ABS unit ! I forgot, there's a company ........Mightyvac sells a hand held vacuum pump that vacuum bleeds brake systems ! MV8000 I think is the #

If the fuse is melting or showing signs of heating up at the blade, the terminal connector has relaxed and is causing a bad connection. Do you feel confident enough to remove the connector from the block and crimp the connector to tighten it up ? Kiwi Roy has an article showing how to do this if you are uncertain on how to do this. This is a major problem area with wiring terminals.

Yeah, that's just wonderful.....an inverted caliper. Had to put it somewhere ? Reassemble everything with the exception of mounting the caliper. Make sure the brake hose is unclipped from the retainer on the swingarm. This will allow the caliper to hang down farther. Make sure the caliper is positioned where the bleed screw is pointed in the 12 o'clock direction.Fill the reservoir completely w/brake fluid. Dot 4 or 5 is the fluid to use. Back the screw out 1 turn and allow to gravity bleed. Have someone else to keep the reservoir full while you are watching the bleeding process take place. When NO bubbles are coming out of the bleeder you can tighten the bleeder screw and reassemble. This should work o.k. for you.

The bleed screw has to point upwards in order to bleed the caliper. I assume this is being done ? Gravity bleed is the only method you can ( w/o a Phoenix bleed tool) use to bleed the system.

Uh.............you are properly installing an 1157 or similar 2 filament bulb properly into the socket ?

Yep !

You can do this one side at a time. Pry the caliper piston back into the caliper with a large regular screwdriver and then insert the new pad. Go to the other side and repeat the process. Be gentle and pry on the surface of the rotor wher the brake pad does not run and you will be good to go.

I am sure all years of V11s will fit. Some of the more knowledgeable members will tell you more than I can. I would consider anodizing over painting. This is a permanent solution so make sure of the color choice. I don't know if you can un-anodize something ?

I looked on the box the cap came in..............pretty old but it fits Triumph,Ducati & Aprillia........ If I remember eBay seller had a "buy it now" or "make offer" price... There are MANY to choose from. Anodized colors, styles, etc. BTW........theses are stainless steel fasteners so don't drop any in the fuel tank. A magnet will not pick them up.I know this from experience.

This is going to be a job, but remove the tail lamp housing and disassemble it. You will find two contacts that need to be bent to make a better contact. You can then fill the cavity with white grease or an electrical grease so it will keep out humidity.

your "pit tootsie" putting the final touches on your bike ?

I will look when I get home this weekend to see the application decal on the box the cap came in......I think it is Ducati, Aprillia, etc. Don't take my word for it though.