gstallons

$$$$ I looked at those a few mos. ago.... about $140/ea. Be careful installing them , use a proper tool & drive or push on the o/s part of the bearing.

It probably should have had a bronze bushing but it didn't . It will not be too difficult to get the diff. off the bike & replace .

Where are you going to purchase the parts ? Go to the SKF website & decipher the entire part # . The prefix and suffix tell all about axial load,speed,seal material, etc..... Not all 6204 bearings are the same . Do not go for the price only when selecting these parts. Good luck

Pete has the date of the 6th of Jan. 2013... not 2014

Using relays to turn on a device is always better than using the switch to carry the current to power to the load . A manufacturer should do this at all opportunities but added costs factor into this . You know what wins = cost . If you have enough time , resources, etc.... you should add the relays .

I did .

Do your forks have a 19 mm nut in the center of the cap w/a small adjuster screw in the center ? If so , it is the early style fork. If it is the other style it is a later model fork. I have a complete fork leg you can use/have as a guide to reassemble with.

You can fix all of your problems with an Oberon fuel cap. look for them on eBay .

Stainlees steel fasteners are just that , stainlees steel . These fasteners have no ability to lubricate . All plated faseners have an ability to "lubricate" as they are being installed/removed. Any time you use a stainlees fastener you will want to use a lubricant , anti-sieze being the first choice. This prevents thread galling and prevents BIG problems .

MotoInternational was stocking them . That is where mine came from .

You need to apply anti-sieze compound to SS fasteners every time you use them.

Oh, it is wonderful . You will see where the leak starts and travels to . No ?s whatsoever as to where it is ! Then you gan go about attacking your problem. Use any gasket sealant w/a gasket except silicone sealant. I use dyes/UV light on any fluid leak .

The pics are too close ( for me ) to tell what angle it is and what I am looking at . Do you have access to engine oil dye and a UV light ?

If the socket head is too far gone for a Torx or fractional Allen head wrench , you can drill the head off the screw . Us a 8 or 10 mm drill bit to remove the head. After you get the housing off you can remove the rest with pliers .

This plate performs a similar function as baffles do in in a large fluid tank. They prevent fluid from sloshing from side to side and or back and forth. This plate slows down the fluids ability from sloshing up in a corner or one end of the crankcase under acceleration or deceleration. Believe me , you need this . Plus , you see in the picture the oil filter has a hose clamp holding it and preventing it from backing off. DO THIS TOO ! That clamp costs le$$ than a rebuild !

Make sure the undersize bearings are available before purchasing... That price seems to be a lot !

Somewhere in my clutter , I own a copy of Guzziology. If i can find it , it might help with the interchange of these c/shafts. Does anyone else have a copy of this book ?

Don't worry.....Every Moto Guzzi is a transitional model !

Onibaka, You are industrious and tenacious. You will get this engine back together and ride again . Good luck. BTW what do you do for a living ?

Contact Agostini in Mandello del Lario , Italy or Teo Lamers ( Netherlands?)for price on used or new parts. I don't know of other large Moto Guzzi dealers in Europe. Be SURE before you purchase parts to make sure they are correct !

Good luck.... I hope you can get the part(s) and get it back running !

WOW ! We are sorry to hear . Do you have access to any used parts or engines ?

Yep !

You do know how to remove the fuel line quick (they can be quick or not quick)connect fitings ? Push the hose against the fitting , push the white part against the hose , while holding these two parts together , remove the line.