gstallons

There were pics on here where somenone had the piston domes and a couple of other things blased with dry ice. This looks ultimate.

Alpina wheels are worth it !

The Motioncontrols part #s are: DNTFL-6 for the rod end and TR6-100 for the threaded rod. The 6mm l.h. thread adjusting nut you can get from Fastenal or any good bike shop that will take time to help. You will have to grind some of the outside edge of the rod end for frame clearanse when installing the shift linage. It might help to purchase a 6mm drill bit for drilling holes. When going back together you will want to cut the new rod the same length as the old one because it is about 15mm longer....

Are you sure that's not an album cover ?

I use Mobil Synthetic 15/40 oil with OEM filter. The transmission oil is seperate from the engine. Most people use RedLine, I use Motorcraft 75/90 Synthetic gear lube in the transmission and rear drive. p.s.Purchase a Pete Roper spacer plate available at MotoInternational (if you live in the US) along with proper gaskets. Use a hose clamp when installing the new filter to keep them from backing off... $$$$$$

Sure,I'm up for any suggestions. thanks Here is a picture of my modification. http://sn134w.snt134...225a1b2d51&fv=1 I used a piece of scrap metal and shaped it like I wanted it with a 19mm center to center on the offset.Then I drilled a hole at the bottom of the bracket where it Ys and installed a 6mm screw/nut for stability. The parts were from midwestcontrol . When I find the invoice I will give specific part #s. p.s. I am sure there are better ways to send or post pics.. You have to understand who is posting this stuff.

You should show pics of the welds so people will get off the subject and they will stop thinking "Mad Max'' type of rigging......

The bad part of all this is............. The clowns will find it is too exotic to sell or part out and toss it into the river. Just post it in the paper for them to return it w/no ?s asked.

As for the pinging, are you running premium fuel ?

I hope things work out for you.

When you purchase it, drop ship it to my address....... I will ride it for 1 year and let you know what it needs.

That is TOO easy........

Wow............................

i will take the shifter off , take some pics, show dimensions, etc...... I got a l.h. rod end & rod from www.midwestcontrol.com . I will try & find part #s for that stuff.

M/Gs are not made for men...... but (certain) men are made for M/Gs.....

I hope this works for ya! I can send you some pics n parts list for making your shifter a shorter throw & have it adjustable.

First of all, my condolences............ You are jump starting the bike with another battery. If so, have the other vehicle off so the alternator will not be influencing your bike. Turn the key on to make sure charge light is on. Then start the bike to see if the light goes out. Then connect a DVOM to the battery and use the fast idle to run it about 1500 rpm. It should show at least 14v charge rate. If all this is good and the bike will run with this battery connected, you just need to get a battery and Battery Tender for winter charging.

What was the original rake in degrees?

Very good !

What's wrong with the clutch ?

Good deal

You can bypass (for test purposes) the sidestand switch to see if it is at fault. Keep in mind, all these bikes/wiring diagrams are not identical.

This plate (along with putting a hose clamp on the oil filter) is the most important product you will ever install on your bike.

The only advantage I can tell is the Ohlins suspension and mirrors that show you what is behind you instead of your elbows. The Sport is better looking as it is a naked bike and the fuel tank's beauty is shown on this style of bike.