gstallons

FYI , H-D dealerships operate in the black because of apparel . This salesman said "I can't sell everyone that comes through the door a bike , but they will buy clothing to show they have been here"!

I am thinking there is an improved timing cover gasket available too. Please use a good gasket sealant (Hylomar) when you button everything up and make sure you use a Roper tray on the bottom end . BTW , while you are waiting , start measuring the thickness of things . Anti-freeze jugs , Rubber-Maid products , etc. to get you a non-magnetic feeler gauge !

audiomick , do you have vernier calipers or access to this plasticene Phil talked about? You should be able to get it at Hobby Lobby or some place similar . And AMEN to a sealant upon final assy.

I'll have to think about it . Maybe somebody else will chime in 'til then .

I'm messin' w/ya

Is that a real word ?

The unfortunate reality is #s ...... Browsing / shopping . Sales volume , profit margin and accessories / apparel. Does a MG dealership factor into that ?

AND make sure one of the teeth is in the center of the crank sensor bore . This is critical amd you want to get it right the !st time. You don;t want it close , you want it right.

Paul , I repaired a front caliper on a Yamaha 4-wheeler a few weeks ago . It was seized from corrosion too. I pressed the piston out w/the front brake and started work on it. It took about 20 mins. and assorted pics to dig out everything from the bore of the dust seal and piston seal bore before I was satisfied . I always use Raybestos brand brake assy. lube going back together.

Uhhh , that's life . After all , they all answer to pencil pushers .

Alright , this is what I did . The wire that goes to the starter solenoid you will now connect it to a conventional size relay pin 86 . pin 87 will go to a good ground. pin 30 you can (if it is easy to get to)bolt the hot/battery post of the starter solenoid . if you are going to do anything install a 20a cb there , pin 87 will now go to the start pin on the starter . Draw this out on paper and look at it a minute . When you have your epiphany , get busy , look at where you want to route things and make sure you are happy w/your work . I did this years ago to a 5000 Ford tractor . It kept eating neutral start switches and I first wired around it . After standing next to it and starting it in gear , I fixed it w/this setup.

I am not much on modified MG bikes .

A lot of things "stall" on these forums . Yes the larger relay is the way to go . You want to buy a name brand relay along with a connector. Hella is the first one that comes to mind.

Improv !

This setup looks a LOT better than the Phoenix stuff I got a long X ago !

If I were you I would purchase speed bleeders for your calipers. These replace your factory bleeder screws and they have check valves built into them. You can Google them and see if you want them or whatever you want to do .

audiomick , please check the spark plug wires to ground using a DVOM . You are testing the secondary side of the coil , the plug wire and the cap. also , there is a resistor in the spark plug . You can test the terminal at the top of the plug to the center electrode to verify a good resistor in the plug. If you get infinite reading , you will find (probably) an open in the circuit. Mine was an open in the spark plug cap. They unscrew and you can pick up a new one at any good bike shop.

Again , I regret he is no longer active here

A lot of people remove the oil pan to swap out the filter . they install a hose clamp on the filter to prevent the filter from backing off . I've done it both ways . Now I stick with one brand of filter and one filter socket and stick with it . A person wants to install the filter and make sure it is SNUG upon installation. To keep from crossthreading the cover , push it up against the oil pan and start rotating it like you are unscrewing it . You will hear or feel a click . This is when the leading edge of the threads on the cover and oil pan pass . Stop turning the cover and start rotating it clockwise . You will (hopefully) never mess up the threads again .

I went to NAPA and bought a 26mm head ( 1'') nut to use to remove the cover on mine . make sure it fits snug and not too loose.

Same here , my black frame had K&N pods when I bought it . Sounded terrible and just didn't look good. You can install them if you want..........but

They should be plenty loose !

All MotionPro stuff is similar to SnapOn : expensive= yes / most righteous=YES

IF the problem were involving air gap (clearance) at the brake pad/rotor , the problem would exist all the time . The problem would have to be at the master cylinder. Bleed the brakes if you feel capable . Remember you will have to remove and turn the caliper u/s down to bleed properly . Use DOT 4 fluid only and this is a two man operation.

I am sorry he is no longer active here .