gstallons

Push down on the back of the seat while you turn the key CCW. This should do it... If not you will have to use a 12" very small regular screwdriver to push the latch to open it. Have someone pull up on the left rear of the seat and using a flashlight, look under the seat about 2" forward from the rear push the screwdriver toward the lever and release the latch. The cable maybe too long to work the release and you need to do something to shorten it.

Google driveshaft or u-joint repairs for V11 ...........After a better look, that is messed up !

Richard....... Do this: go to an automotive parts store, ask to look at any two identical U-joins. Take them out of the boxes and stand them up about 2' from each other. You see that the caps are matching at 3-6-9-12 o'clock positions. Your driveshaft HAS to be assembled this way to be "in time". Now the yokes at the ends of the driveshaft HAVE to be in the same position as you would touch both your thumbs and middle fingers together.When you have all of these as thy should be, the driveshaft will be "in time". Do this as you are sitting at your computer to understand this concept. You will probably find something is not kosher with your driveline.

Remove the oil pressure switch and take it with you to an automotive shop and ask them about borrowing an oil pressure gauge & proper adapter to check oil pressure. As I stated it is a metric machine thread and not a NPT thread.

The switch removal procedure was tongue-in-cheek. If he rode 2 mi. w/the light on, he is probably o.k. You can drain some oil out & look for damages. The oil sender is a machine thread. Purchase or borrow a manual gauge from a mechanic or auto parts store and check the oil pressure. When lights come "on" you are meant to STOP. These lights are not for your viewing pleasure. It is cheaper to haul your bike home and diagnose it than to spend $$$$$ to fix it after it is toast!

I have an idea, take the oil pressure switch out,start the engine, if oil shoots out about 10' in a hard stream, you are pumping oil. P.S. do this outside............

Please explain the 2nd paragraph? The 90 degree one............

Roy, I am sure the coils are the same part #. Swap sides and se if the sputter follows the coil. If so, replace the coil.

Huh ?

What kind of problems is your starter having? www.euromotoelectrics.com is a good place to buy parts from.

Good! I wish them well..........

You do not chop Moto Guzzis or BMWs.... Older Triumph, BSA, Norton, H-D, etc... those are the kind of bikes that get that treatment.

Enzo, This is what I would tell my BFF. #1 The front fender has to go.It looks like Daffy Duck's bill after an accident #2 The seat cover & tank cover should be red as with the other parts. Keep the colors to a minimum. #3 Toss the tool kit. If that is what it is? #4 The exhaust thing should be a slip on from Akrapovic not Tractor Supply Co. #5 Put something less freaky on the throttle bodies. #5.1 I am not going to argue with this equation or any of the other points mentioned. #6 I would hang aroung (leave the concept bike at home first) minorities ( Negroes w/crotch rockets) w/o pissing them off, they could give you some assistance in what is cool v not cool. #7 If 21 people tell you pink leathers do not look good on you, they might be looking out for your best interests and not being pricks......

When you say "strobe light", are you referring to a timing light ? You may not see anything because the engine uses the crank sensor to reference TDC. To my knowledge these ir any marks that are normally on the flywheel are no longer there. The light not showing up consistently is evidence of misfire on that side.

Post a picture before I say yes.......

The only evasive move I would make with any Guzzi modified like this is when I hopped off while pushing it off into the metal crusher.....

She looks like a movie monster ! BTW.......where do you get off putting pictures like this on this forum ?

I don't care for these "things"...

MAN!!!! See what I miss by being gone off on a service call all day !

As usual................PERFECT

BZZZT! Nice try, but unfortunately, incorrect. The removal of lead from fuel revealed a need for different valve seat material, but that was a by-product that had never been accounted for, not the reason lead was added to fuel. And by "lead," I'm talking about the octane booster tetra-ethyl lead [hence, the nickname "ethyl" for high octane gas, vs. "regular" for the standard grade.] And modern octane boosters don't work anywhere near as well as a shot of avgas 100LL ["Low Lead" here is a relative term: 100LL has much more TE-lead in it than any road-going version of gasoline ever had...] All of which is great for those of us w/ Guzzi's w/o a cat in the pipe. Thank you for your correction.............

The lead acts as a lubricant for the valve seating surface. A hokey-pokey way of lubrication, but it started back when the atmosphere was just something to breathe. You can purchase enough addatives to help replace what is now removed from fuels to where you can run vintage iron.

The early Honda CR 125 & CR 250 Honda dirt bikes had a matte green finish in the center of the fuel tank. Google the motorcycle and look at the color. There are people that are restoring these and they could give you a paint code.

I like the "unlit" disclaimer ! Yes, you can do that(find air leaks) along with a digital tach hooked up to watch for r.p.m. changes. BTW, you are not going to get a perfect seal on the throttle body shafts so don't spend a lot to get a little. p.s. With the lighted propane torch a person can chart what is and is not flammable on their bike.

Get it !!!!!!!!!