gstallons

My bike has the sleeves on both lines. You can find the hose protector stuff at a hydraulic hose store..

As I understand the term as written: it would mean the same as pumping the accelerator on a carb. engine with a acc. pump. to put more gas than normal in the intake to help with starting.

No problem, ask questions, we will help........ I will help as much as possible.I am not sure if these injectors are sequential, if they are triggered with every ignition pulse or every crankshaft revolution. EMRY (a member here) is also a good help on these matters

All highway transportation that carries humans is governed by tailpipe emission laws. The optimum perdormance has nothing to do with O2, CO2,NOX, or any other exhaust gas. Meeting emissions governs all of this. Gas mileage and exhaust emissions is what manufacturers have to use as a target. What you do with your bike (unless you live in a very strict country) is your business.

You can trim the fuel injector pulse function to 15 or 20 crankshaft revolutions. Well....... number of revolutions means= the number of revolutions. What do you not understand? I think it pulses the injectors for a specific # of crankshaft revolutions before it ceases to pulse in case the engine does not start. This will stop the engine from flooding if it does NOT start. BTW, 15 crankshaft revolutions is a LONG time..............

Jami, You should have had lots of clearance around this area. There is a rubber sleeve covering the stainless hoses on my bike. Is yours like that? You will probably have to purchase hose from M/G because of the fittings. A hydraulic hose store "might" be able to fix you up though. When you go back together, there is a spiral wrap for hoses to protect them. See if the hose store has this stuff.

It says Vanguard 2009. They are from Belgium/ Netherlands. They sell clothing.. As ALL great advertisements, you don't know what they are selling, then by the time the video is over you don't care. I think it's incredible....

AND most importantly, use a cam assembly lube on everything you want to protect.

There are Japanese to American service manuals just as silly. Don't think it is exclusive to the Italians.........

wow !

Everything on these bikes is abnormal. So that makes it normal.

Purchase a BRASS drift punch as close to the axle diameter as possible. You do not want or want to create problems...... Use it an a bood hammer to drive the axle bolt/ shaft out of the axle. It does have to be smooth with no rust upon reinstallation. Before you put it all back together, be sure the nut threads back on to the bolt easily. If it doesn't go to a machine shop to have the threads repaired.

Post some pics... Also, if it has a rubber dust boot, move it out of the way and show us a pic there too.

There are parts of this bike scheme that does and does not appeal to me. It's his bike and he posted picrures for our pleasure and critique. Please comment as though the owner is standing next to you.

Has this picture been on here before ?

Do a mock assembly and loka t the caliper/pad position with the rotor. If they are centered up, you are good to go. If you have to move the caliper out you can use a good SAE flat washer on both mouning bolts to shim outward.

How far off is the Cali. rear wheel/disc rotor ? Surely someone can fab. spacers or cut your mounting bracket down?

Felix, I don't know if you can buy the Alpina set-up here in the U.S. or not. If you get them from Rossopuro expect to pay $3600.00 with fr. & import duties... I would Google & check on the Alpina if you bail on this idea. There are plenty of aluminum spoke vendors selling V11 wheels too.

Why didn't I think of this !!!! I was at a buddy's shop today & he was explaining how he set-up front and rear wheel bearings. He told me he assembled the spacer, bearings,etc... After that he took a piece of all-thread the right size & length and used it for his new axle.Then you use SAE flat washers ( because they are narrow) and nuts, you assemble and torque the nuts to 50' lbs. If the bearings spin freely everything is o.k... If not it is time to do something. Either a new spacer or tapping e.g. seating the wheel bearings into the hub for 0 lateral pressure because roller bearings cannot tolerate this. When installing bearings you want to make sure the bearing is seated in the hub and against the spacer. That is why you are doing this to make sure NOTHING happens on the road !

Incredible.... It reminds me of a dog chasing a car....... what is he going to do when he catches it?

What are the last four words out of every Redneck's mouth "Hey y'all watch this" !

The rally for MGNOC is the weekend of July 14-18 in Elkader,Iowa.....If things work out I hope to be there. Check the website.

The brake pad pins are held in by hair-pin clips. Remove the clips, pins and then the metal retainer with the Brembo symbol. Bend or twist the outer tangs toward the caliper. This will or should help put pressure on the retainer when reassembled. There is an arrow on this part to show direction. Remember you are working on the most important aspect of your bike so be CAREFUL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If you are unsure of what to do, price new ones to see if you want to replace them....

Disconnect the battery so there will be no excitement.....

IF and I mean IF the bike is fitted with a new clutch, pressure plate or part like this it is possible these parts were coated with cosmolene (sp) or some other rust preventative. If this is not cleaned from the metal surfaces upon assembly you can get this effect or affect.... You do not have any hydraulic problems or you would not be able to put the bike in gear easily.