gstallons

Yes, buy the kit........ They will come in handy. Practice on a junk part FIRST........

Hmmmm, where do you live ? You need to find a friend that knows something about finding fluid leaks. Does your bike have an external or internal pump? If your tank has a black rubber pad on the top of the tank it has an external pump. If it is the other (internal pump), you have a problem with the mounting of the pump to tank or a fuel line connection or connector problem. KEEP US posted.

Yeow! that is pricey.

The petcock (electric or manual) is there only to aid in fuel tank r&r so fuel will not go everywhere ......

Buy premium from a gasoline seller not a store. The cheaper places buy and sell the cheapest fuel possible with NO addatives.

I don't know if someone has researched and has an aftermarket part # . I wouldn't wate my time looking and NONE of these chain stores have anyone smart enough to look through a buyers guide. As critical as a rear brake switch is, I don't think you need to do anything but get one from Guzzi. They can't be that expensive and you don't want ANY surprises !

Can you provide some dimensions ? You might be able to get a Heli-Coil to repair it ..............

I didn't want to get started and end up with a mess......When you say Scotchbrite, are you referring to the Scotchbrite pads ?

My bike originally was a Florida bike with all the corrosion salt n humidity a coastal city can give. The factory exhaust is very dingy and I want to clean it up. What is the metal used in the ex. pipes, crossver etc. ? I want it to look good without any surprises when I get through. Can anyone help ? ? ?

Ask the owner. If it is cable driven, it will of course have a speedo cable exiting the bottom of the unit. If it is electronic, it will have a pick-up and magnetic sender on the front or rear wheel.

When I first got my bike I set everything just like the specs. said. I was so p***ed at it I wanted to push it into the creek, unload 1000 rounds of ammo on it and then burn it. I took it to a PowerCommander dealer had it remapped n set the TPS v @ 450 mV at 1000 rpm idle speed. TADAAA ! You wil have to trim it to your satisfaction. Keep us posted.

you can usually find one (V11) being parted out on the computer somewhere. I like the white face Veglias on pre 2004 bikes. I would contact a speedo service to find out the failure problem with these to see if they can maintain a reliable unit. Yours looks great. I would look up the manufacturer and get a tach the same style. These bikes are made to personalize....... Do what you want to it.If we see you making it into a chopper, that is a different story.........

i'm about remove my tank also, '02 le Mans with rubber pad on top of tank. i have a knurled round knob on the fuel petcock on left side of tank, this is the fuel shut off? mine will only turn about an eighth of a turn clockwise, then it won't turn anymore, i don't want to break it. how many revolutions should it turn 'til fuel shuts off? or am i doing something wrong? thanks, stef Stef, yes that is the shutoff valve.It (the valve) requires a lot of turns to seat and open. Purchace a small brand of Channel-lock pliers to help you to seat the valve. Mine was a booger to work the first few times.

I stopped looking at the price of fuel. I run premium and got 35mpg last Sunday on a 120 mi. spin.

I thought I saw pics of it in 3D at a bike show. Looks ultimate= no production..........

Docc, I think someone on the MGNOC website rebuilds them . You can Google the repair also. What is wrong with yours ? The fasteners should last a long time. If they scare you I'm sure Fastenal can fix you up.

First tell us if the tank has a rubber pad on top of the tank... If it does, it has the external pump. I know how this is removed... You will have to shut off the fuel supply valve, disconnect the fuel line, remove the seat, remove the rear tank mounting bolt, pick up on the fuel tank and have someone disconnect the tank low fuel indicator plug. Pick up a little more and disconnect the two small vent hoses. I don't think the 03 has the other smog hoses and dump valve? If so disconnect them also. When you go back together splice the two small hoses together because they are vents only for the fuel cap and spillage. p.s this is a two man operation!

Good post & good lookin' bike...............

Jada G ?

If you want to stop the front brake pulsation you will have to surface the rotors. I would surface all rotors if it was my bike. If you want to stop the noise you can pull the pads and scuff them up by laying a sheet of rough sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbing the friction surface of the pad til the pad has a new surface, clean this off with brake cleaner, allow to dry and reinstall.

Where is the bike located? I would think you could locate one closer................. The two bikes could not be any where close in comparison. Make sure of what you want. If you like to put around and drink espresso, the BMW is the way to go. If you like taking things apart just to look inside, your wet dreams will no longer be dreams. GET IT NOW !!!!!!!!!!!! M/G riders are a different breed. If you can listen to both Edvard Greig and Robin Trower, have problems with authority, left handed, own a Mac and enjoy pronouncing the name GUZZI to everyone who asks "a what?", take off tomorrow and go get it !

Yes, the brake caliper/rotor/brake pads is where the noise is being generated from. try applying the rear brake with your hand and have someone rotate the wheel. You can apply differing amounts of pressure to se what happens. If you can pry the cover off the cavity that contains the brake pads, try seperating them from the rotor and rotate the wheel. If the noise disappears, you have found the problem. You can Google shops that will resurface rotors if need be. This is an easy task to remove & reinstall them. MARK & index the rotor side and position when removing & reinstalling them. Always clean the mating surfaces and torque the fasteners in steps and aa crisscross(sp?)pattern so you will not warp the rotors.

When you install the new bearings, pop off the dust seal, fill the bearing FULL with wheel bearing grease, reinstall the dust seal and you will not have any more bearing trouble. Bearings come with just enough grease to keep from rusting. You can do this to bearings that do not have a high bearing speed. These bearings move a small amount rocking back & forth.Too much grease will cause a rotating bearing to heat up and you will have trouble.

The US has had headlights on a LONG time.

kecup, Pacify us and disconnect the throttle cable at the left throttle body. Start the bike and blip the throttle on the portion of the throttle body where the inner cable was attached. It should return to idle immediately. If this "fixes" it, look at the throttle barrel to see if it works on the handle bar freely. It shoul be binding.If it is loosen the two Allen head screws and get things back in place. There is no way the computer can keep the rpm up and cause this problem. Even if they screwed up the tps it should still work ok.