gstallons

In the automotive field the Guzzi engine design is a longitudinal v engine.

To my knowledge the field magnets are permanent magnets bonded to the case. DO NOT knock these loose or break them. This is bad medicine! You can lube the starter bushings & starter drive with spray white lube.

mating season ?

There are litmus strips available to test the moisture level in brake fluids.

at least you weren't on a late 60's/early 70s British bike and jabbed the rear brakes on a panic stop.........you would have found second gear !

Docc, Did you hop on this site the second you got off your bike ?

make a few panic stops on an old BMW, you will think you have 6 piston disc brakes on that M/G ...........

It's a matter of taste............ To me champagne tastes like Perrier & Alka Selzer.

Rock & Roll is said to be divided into two categories; those who have listened to The Velvet Underground and those who haven't. With that being said, the same goes to Zen & the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance. if you ride without reading it you are not whole. That book provided a catharsis a man does not feel very often in his life. p.s. It has some mistakes, but...........

I looked to see if you responded to my post but it must have gotten lost. Contact www.egge.com to see if they can rebabbit your stock bearing shells. They are in SantaFe Springs,Ca. Ph # 866-534-3443. You might have to provide them with a LOT of measurements or send your c/shaft, rods & rod bearings to them to get a correct fit.

I would say not to use what you have purchased.Use DOT 4 fluid only. Completely flush the stock fluid when changing and continue to use the same fluid every time. Also, never mix silicone brake fluid with any other type(s) of brake fluid....

OOOOkkaaayyyy.........

What happened to your c/shaft ? Watch eBay for people parting out these bikes.............

Diodes can be checked using an analog ( remember the ones with a needle instead of a digital display) meter. Connect the leads to each end of the diode, then reverse the leads. If it shows continuity in one direction and infinity in the other direction, it is probably good. p.s. it is a good idea to check any component "out of circuit " to keep the other parts from influencing the meter readings.

I am glad/sad to hear you sold your bike. I hope you sold it with the understanding the new owner would have to become a member of this group.......

It would be in your best interest to forget that thing exists...............

Start by losening the clamp (at the throttle body) at the end of the cable to see if the lever/cable works. If it does work then look at the cam assembly on the bottom of the throttle body.

I like the new avatar !

That "adjustment" is for an air gap adjustment between the lever and piston. DO NOT mess with this screw. The clutch is a hydraulic "no adjustment necessary" affair. Do you feel there is a need to tinker with this ?

It's good to have you . Enjoy yourself.................

How did you find out these parts were missing? If I remember correctly, it takes a LOT of work to get this far into the forks to see this.......

Does the fork cap have a single 19 mm nut with a small adjusting screw in the middle? Does it click when you turn it? I am sorry but there is no diagram on thhis post.

Your learning is our reward.

Mineral oil is not something I would mix with a transmission. If I were going to do anything I would get the trans. hot ( by going for a ride) and drain the fluid with the bike on a centerstand.I would allow it to drain overnight and then install the drain plug, refill and go for a SHORT ride before rechecking the fluid level.

Can you post pics of the old cap assy. & the "gasket" or o-ring that seals these to the tank?