gstallons

It does make the workplace signage worth looking at !

It doesn't matter about the capacity. Check it on 3 different occasions after you change it. You don't want ANY surprises. I know this guy that read his manual wrong on an Ambassador, and got 50 miles before destroying the rear drive from a lack (amount) of fluid.

can you remove a panel that has not been weathered or sun bleached ? Take it to a GOOD automotive paint store to match your colour.

Beautiful background !

D##n, You are a good troubleshooter! There is something you will come to understand. Most MotoGuzzi owners are a proffesional craftsman, tradesman or high (or low) tech tinker. You will enjoy your two wheel Rubic's cube.

Feel free to blab. I trust your input.

You are using a DVOM? That's why.

No comment......

And what did you do in the brake industry? I'm not a smart*** I would like more input in this area and on this subject. When I am working on brake hydraulic/rubber components I use a Raybestos brake assembly fluid. Any comments?

As in 0 ? I would assume you would connect to the trigger side of the coil?

Are these pipe or machine threads on this ? A shot in the dark would be to use a PERMATEX lliquid thread sealant with Teflon.

Is there any way a person can PayPal a gift ?

He was brilliant in EVERY role he played and movie he directed.

These dowels should be used to align the front and rear wheels. After you get the tires centered you want to have a small amount of preload (5- 10lbs.) on the bearings.

To get the calipers bled, I would start with the right side first. Mount or hold the bike in an upright position then gravity bleed this (r.h.side) caliper til there are no bubbles coming out of the bleeder screw. Tighten this screw then go to the left side. Repeat the process. Please maintain a full reservoir of fluid or you will take longer to do this. After you are satisfied the calipers are bled pull the brake lever until you have a good brake. You can test for a sticking caliper now by loosening the caliper mounting bolts and see which caliper is stuck. The problem will be caliper pad pins,caliper piston(s) or both. I don't know if caliper kits are available for these or not. There are only two things you can use in or on brake hydraulic components.Brake fluid or brake grease. NOTHING containing ANY petroleum products or distillates. If you own a temp. gun you can check front brake rotor temps. to see if one is hotter than the other. Do this after you are satisfied you have safely put everything back together and go for a trial run. You don't want to hear anything falling off your bike at highway speed do you?

I follow procedures "when they happen to be the same" as what I want to do................

That little screw governs the clearance between the hydraulic piston and the actuator. If there is no clearance between the two or it is screwed in too far the clutch hydraulics will pump up like a hydraulic jack. I don't think you will like that.

So you broke it and can't find another one. http://widgets.nbc.c...id/ba4377d3bfd6

FWIW... all of these sensors have one thing in common. They generate a voltage signal anywhere from (usually) 150mv to 900mv. The AFR sensor is probably the "fastest" of the sensors. This is best for more efficiant monitoring of the exhaust gases.

Oh No !!!!!!!

Do you write procedures for a living ?

This is the condensed version; Please don't fall asleep. #1 there are zirconia(90% of the market) and titania sensors. A rule of thumb= zirconia has 18mm thread size and titania has 12mm and sometimes 18mm thread. #2 there are 4 styles of zirconia; 1 wire,which the sensor shell is grounded to the pipe and the signal return wire goes to the PCM. 2 wire where the other wire is grounded to a better ground. 3 wire which has a signal return and two heater wires with the shell being grounded. 4 wire with the 4th wire providing ground to a better source. EVERYONE understand this, a ground is equally important in a circuit. #3 the titania is the sensor is the more critical sensor. It is always a 3 or 4 wire device which would mean they are always heated. The 4 wire AFR (this term is used by Ford on some sensors)is similar to an oxygen sensor. It uses current in the decision making process. It watches to see how much current is required to maintain 300mv across a circuit. This is "simiar" to a mass air flow sensor. Reference or ambient air is not required for the operation of this device. This sensor measures a/f ratio from 10:1 to 18:1. #4 for the big one. The wide band sensor. This will be a 5 wire sensor. It measures with a highest degree of accuracy a/f ratio. This sensor requires a seperate pre-programmed controller to maintain a specific (usually 14.7:1) a/f ratio. The controller then sends a signal to the PCM for fuel trim adjustments. Wide band sensors and AFR sensors are not interchangeable. Everyone understand that the wide band sensor appears to need a seperate controller to function. p.s. understand that heated sensors start "working" quicker because the sensor has to be (I think) 800 deg f. to start working.

This instructor was a representative for NGK/NTK. He was a (sic) evangelical Pentecost preacher. I never met a man more enthused about oxygen sensors in my entire life. He started with Walther Nernst's philosophy and worked his way to the current ( I think) 4 different styles or types of sensors. I want to get my training material/notes together rather than trust my memory. If I can't help you decide what to do I think I still have his business card. You can reach him to help with what you want to know. I found his card, but i can't find my training material. Ralph D.Harris, NGK Spark Plugs Inc. email address is rharris@ngksparkplugs.com . I hope he is still available, he is very a very exciting person to communicate with. In the meantime here is something to get you started thinking. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_sensor

Now that's an avatar ? !

I took a 4 hr class on O2 sensors last year. I will dig up my notes and try to give you some useful info.