gstallons

Are these the guys that sell the hopped up voltage regulator ?

yep

For your own benefit , install a stud in that small bolt area on the sidestand bracket . When you tighten a bolt you are screwing a bolt into the threads of the engine block. When you install a stud and tighten the nut , you are pulling on the stud to tighten the sidestand to the engine block. A much better setup and no chance of wearing out the threads in the block .

I have copies of some charts Kiwi_Roy posted on here a few years ago . I can't find them on this forum or I would repost them . He is MIA and I cant locate him.Hmmmm. I wish I were smart enuf to find things here .

It was not cool . More like , "now , you did what" ?

I looked on the display and they had all kinds of packages . I just got the two kits w/the ATC & ATM fuses. after the nitroglycerin pill they gave me 10 off . I didn't like it but I took it . I can deduct all these irrational expenses , IDK about anyone else .

On a lighter note : do you remember when one guy drained the trans. and refilled through the flywheel inspection (rubber) plug ?

Thank you ! While swapping out the fuses on both bikes , I found the 30a fuse on Greenie starting to melt the plastic on the fuse . SO , I start all over and bend the terminals on ALL connectors on ALL the fuse terminals and use a dab of NYE 750G "goo" to help the contact surfaces . I put the old fuses in a baggie and stuck them up in the hole behind the seat . When I got back from my trip to town I found the package from MG Cycle. Now I can install the pump , air filter and fuel shutoff . The strange thing about this shutoff , it does not need a 12 in pie wrench to turn the fuel off/on ! One of these days both of these bikes will be in riding condition !

I bought a Bussman ATC-ID-SK fuse kit w/LED made into the fuse . When the fuse fails , the LED lights up indicating a blown fuse . 7 ea of 5a-30a fuses . These are the best thing I have ever seen . No need for guessing , no test light , no nothin' . this kit was about $64 so it is not for the cheapskates ! When the original fuse fails , install a conventional fuse to see if your problem remains . You don't need a handful of $$$ and still have a problem. BTW , if anyone wants to post a pic of these fuses , go ahead ! [docc added image.]

I would not ride my bike to the end of the driveway (1000') and back w/no oil in the transmission. You have no idea how fortunate you are !

Now , I do not know what the allowed % of leakdown is on this cylinder is . MOST tests allow 5% or less as being perfect . I would test at BDC, halfway and TDC to know how it is doing throughout the cycle. It doesn't take that much more time to do . Use a ratchet/socket on the c/shaft for no surprises ! Watch some YouTube videos to make sure you are happy w/your procedure.

Yep , that will do what you want it to do.

Is this for real ?

Refill capacity is 27-28 oz. If this box was empty , you should have destroyed everything inside. Make sure you have ridden this at least 5 miles to make everything in the gearbox is mixed together , then remove the drain plug and allow just a little to drain (into a white paper plate) and quickly reinstalling the drain plug. Looking at what you have in the plate will tell you what is going on inside . Shift bendix ? That is new to me. A normal motorcycle trans had a shift drum that moves the gears to produce different gear ratios. MG has a different setup .You would just have to look at it to understand how it works .There are adjustments that can be made but you have to be familiar wit this stuff before you start adjusting things .

Nooooo , the most important question is , how much oil did you add to the transmission to get it to the correct level ? Also , I hope the bike is in an upright position when you are doing this .

Empty ? How much fluid did you add ? Be specific ! First thing , YOU purchase enough to refill the gearbox . Next drain the oil from the gearbox and inspect the fluid That has come out. Be sure you are draining and refilling the gearbox in the correct spots. Someone had refilled the gearbox at the rubber plugs going into the clutch housing area with bad results. Let us know what happens

I have a leakdown tester somewhere I will loan you to do what you want . Let me know and I will look for it .

Did this shop try heating it up w/a torch to bend it back ? I don't suppose there are ANY salvage yards there so you might try eBay or a MG dealership to get another one ?

IDK how much the heat shield "material" would affect the temp. difference , I know it would alter the heat transfer..... It would be a good idea to maybe put extra between the tank and engine area just in case .

They started plating the center / ground electrodes to prevent wear of the material and increasing the air gap. The better the plating material , the longer the lifespan . It ain't gonna prevent build-up like is on Docc's spark plugs . I am still "sitting on the toilet" musing about what caused the breakdown on the bike yesterday . the fact it was a no start after a hot-soak....hmmmmm. Chemtronics sells Freeze Spray . r-134a in a can that will COOL down any electrical component to diagnose "if" it is the fault. BTW , Docc , these smaller relays will get so hot you are going to think they will melt . Mini and Micro relays are used in everything and I cannot understand why they are put in high current situations.

IDK why these bikes EAT spark plugs . The deposits on the plugs do not look good but there is nothing you can do easily to fix this condition.

AFA spark plugs , I have to keep 4 NGK spark plugs here at the shop all the time . If the bike does not start , I have to put new plugs in.

The rest of the diagnosis is needing to be packing a spark tester. If you had more than three hands you could unscrew a spark plug cap and hold the end of the plug wire near the head while cranking to test for spark. The fuel pump (vapor lock) issue would be up to you to diagnose. You would have to remove a lot of stuff (on the side of the road) to test fuel pressure .

Sounds like you had a disappointing day . Relay #1 is working because the starting motor works. Relay #2 is working because the headlamp is ( I assume) working ? The way to verify it is working (since you don't wont to lean over the bike) is to push the horn button. Relay #3 is working because the starter is allowed to crank. Relay #4 is working because it supplies +to Relay #5 Relay #5 would give you evidence of working when the fuel pump would (make noise) function . The #5 relay controls the + to the fuel injectors , ign. coils and the fuel pump.

As in 43 deg C ? AKA 109 deg F