gstallons

Disconnect your splice(at time of failure) and tell us which wire and color has 7.5v plz.

Exactly which wire (color) has 7.5v and is it still 7.5v ?

BTW . "starter interruptus" has 300 variations , so ........

ALL the wires need to be connected to the battery before you start . Get a good battery. AZ (I think) sells Odyssey along w/a military discount . The only battery to buy. You can hop it around to other bikes if needed.

Well , I would appreciate involvement . As in keeping us up to date....

Well , Ouji , have you got anything to report ?

Joe , I had to look those names up !

Are you speaking from experience ? I remember the first AND ONLY time i was dragging my foot o/s of a 77 Vette pulling it into the shop and almost left my foot under the driver's rear tire !

AFA this Jaguar rebrand : I know what happened to Alissa Heinerscheid and Daniel Blake .

well , IDK what to say

These bikes are like today's cars . You could strip all the badging off all the 4 door cars and could not name three correctly . All the liter bike crotch rockets are the same. And unfortunately that is what sells , along with $3500 worth of space suits , good medical insurance along w long term disability if not funeral policy . YES , they are fun but I can only operate it to about 10% of it's potential .

According to these diagrams , the N light will work with or w/o the relay because the relay's existence has nothing to do w/the light. the light has B+ any time the ign. sw. is "on" and the N switch acts as the ground to turn on the N light !

As you can tell I am better than (I hope) a chimpanzee !

Well , I found this by searching "test point layout" and found it in a 2010 post of Kiwi_Roy's diagram . As you can tell I put it up here and nothing happens ! Anyone else want to improve and open this go ahead on !

https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=11659

Right now I have my hands full of a Polaris 4 wheeler and I will see about this tonight . Mea culpa , maybe ?

I will have to compare (when I get time today) the factory diagram to Kiwi_Roy's diagram and say yes .

Can you explain the theory of operation and the procedure ?

A quick test of the relays. If relay (start) #1 works= the engine will crank . If relay (headlight) #2 works the headlight will work. If the relay (side stand) #3 works the N light will work. If relay (ECU) #4 works the relay (injection ) #5 will work and the fuel pump will energize . These actions will all work IF everything else is in order.

No way , why did you get rid of something that perfect ? I had a K100RS and still regret my decision to let it go ! It was the most neutral bike I ever owned.

Explain everything again . The bike will die while running ? Does the headlight come on when you turn the ign. switch on And does the fuel pump cycle for less than 4 seconds ? Does the engine crank when you try to engage the starter ? I'm not sure if the kickstand switch will kill the engine . I think it will when the bike is placed in gear w/the clutch lever is pulled . I can't remember ? My sidestand switch is bypassed so I can't try it on mine . Please explain ALL the symptoms so we can help you .

Do not ground either one of those wires. Doing so will blow a fuse to say the least. If you don't know , don't do it ! Is your sidestand switch still "modified" ? Y assume you are doing this near the oill cooler ? If so undo the jumper. Are you POSITIVE you are reading 7.5v on this (orange) wire ? This power comes from the ign. switch. The light blue wire goes to Relay 3 then also powers Relay 2 to turn on the headlight. Check V at F4 and see if you have 12v. there. If those #s are 7v and 12v , the problem is in the switch or at a connector . Let me know what you find.

Is that a genuine Brit telephone booth ?

Hmmm , at least they are consistent w/the spelling !