gstallons

Backfiring through the carbs.?

You are including your time and angst ?

for $65,000 can we have one too?

Docc, mark the driveshaft at the sip yokes so you can install it the way it came off and remove that portion (of the driveshaft) and take it with you......... after looking at it I see it's the rear joint. Remove the two pinch bolts that hold it to the splined shaft. It should slide right off.

Contact MotoInternational. Google it and your problems are over.

Docc, You probably need a 6mm 1.0 thread pitch w/45 deg. angle grease fitting.

You are talking about the 8mm bolts?

Look at the other fitting on the opposite joint. Probably a 45 degree fitting & metric thread. Take the other fitting with you to match it up. Go to an established auto parts store for the correct fitting.

Hopefully you are talking about the pinch bolts that holds the yoke on the output shaft. This should be tight and the yoke NOT slide on the shaft. Tighten them both equally to about 30 ft.lb. of torque.

Docc, Go to an automotive paint store and buy a ScotchBrite pad to polish the seal surface of the shaft then clean with Brakekleen. Lubricate the seal and shaft surface upon reassembly.

Adding to JRT's comments, I have torn the transmission up on just about everything I have been on. After doing everything wrong I now am an expert on how to do it right. You can upshit and downshift w/out using the clutch. The only experience needed is(which sounds reasonable enough) to do lots of practice. It's like practicing throwing hand grenades. You will get good or kaboom!

#1 a dielectric grease is used as an insulator or a conductivity inhibitor. You want a conductivity enhancer. Stabilant 22 or Ford electrical grease pt# F2AZ-19584-A electrical grease is good. You could go to Radio Shack and hopefully talk to someone about this problem to see if they have anything to help. be prepared to spend more there for they sell in small quantities at big prices.

First disconnect the wire(s) at the horn. Use a 3' jumper , hook to the battery + and touch the other end to each horn. You will know immediately if the are working. If this is o.k. go to step 2. You could use a test light to test for proper v at the horns. disconnect the wire to the horn(s),connect the test light to the wire and press the horn button. If there is a good light, you have a horn problem. If you do not have a good light, sawp relays first then go to the wiring diagram to test for problem(s).

Take a small reg. tip screwdriver and pry it off.

I think the exhaust tips are a bit much...

Make sure you use stainless steel for corrosion. p.s. let someone else do the drilling, mounting and first start-up.

OHHHH YEAHHHH !!!!!!!!!1

good job. thanks for the info.

Is there any single component that fails consistently?

It's an out-take from the newest Bond film.

I think we need a "little" more information. There are two fork legs and the compression leg is bottoming out. Like going to the bottom of fork travel? Screw the compression screw in while counting turns or clicks to see how ma........nevermind. Who has been tinkering with your suspension?

Beautiful... If I don't have any troubles maybe I can go next year! p.s. Is there an ugly spot in Tn. ?

Do you have access to engine oil dye ? This will tell you exactly where it is leaking.........

It does make the workplace signage worth looking at !

It doesn't matter about the capacity. Check it on 3 different occasions after you change it. You don't want ANY surprises. I know this guy that read his manual wrong on an Ambassador, and got 50 miles before destroying the rear drive from a lack (amount) of fluid.