gstallons

Moto-International has the relay kits for older Mk-IV series bikes. They should have something for the V11.

Roy, you are sort of right and sort of wrong. Please see this description or explanation in the link below to see the difference. Google the word potentiometer and rheostat to see the difference. http://answers.yahoo...10075133AAMoFTz

I've seen plenty of examples of batteries hooked up backwards. There is no one component that fails every time a battery is hooked up backwards. I commend your first time wiring diagram.

Pull the fuel tank and the plastic shield between the tank and steering head to gain access to the cable(s).

Re: relay #4. Sometimes relays have a diode in parallel with the coil to cause the voltage spike to go to ground instead of back to the device that triggers the solenoid. This voltage spike can be as high as 5x the voltage applied. This voltage spike occurs when the device is turned off (or cycled) and the field is collapsed in the coil. The diode as drawn I am not sure what purpose it serves.

Wow !! You ruined my Saturday, Each time he overtook a rider was awsome! Can I have one of these for Christmas ? Each time I see these I can't understand how they got so close to perfection and then, poof ! Reminds me of the Buell B2 or all Buells for that matter.

Normally these fittings are connected to the manifold vacuum via a vacuum hose. On this bike is vented to the atmosphere. Don't worry about it or you can connect a section of hose to it and let it hang down to keep foriegn matter from going inside the port.

I look at filters much as I would a parachute. You could buy 2 or 3 cheap parachutes for the price of an expensive one . Think about the saaaavvvviiiiiiiiiinnnnnggggs!

Epiphany !!!!= Read The F**kin' Manual ?

Study this diagram; N5 is ground, K8 is 5v supply, K7 is v reference. At idle the K7 v ref is about .450v or 450 millivolts, as throttle angle is increased K7 travels toward K8 increasing signal return voltage to the ecu telling it throttle angle is greater. at WOT v ref is or about 5v. Since throttle angle is at cruising speed 75% of the time the greatest wear will be on that point, wearing it out and causing a glitch at that point. http://z.about.com/d/autorepair/1/0/R/3/42231354.gif

Do you have a PowerCommander installed and or what is the TPS setting?

IAEF ?

You need to have plenty of gaskets for "just in case". I prefer a substance called Hylomar. You can apply it to both sides of the gasket surface and it wil come off and not stick to the metal surfaces. Buy some and play with it before you decide to use it. As with ANY sealer; just enough to squeeze out of the mating surfaces is enough.

? #1 answer= you want it tight enough to not come loose... ?#2 answer= I do not know why they come loose. An occasional mistake can be made and the filter come loose. This many times by so many different owners, they can't be all stupid. That's why my UFI filter has a hose clamp around it. I can't afford the mistake and you shouldn't either. p.s. As far as what you should do; you should do what you have the most confidence in. This is choices in oil, filter and installation procedure. That hose clamp might cost you $2:00. I don't know what a rebuild + towing from point a to b. costs.

I am not posting this to be a smart***. I just wan everyone to know the proper terms for a component. http://z.about.com/d.../3/42231354.gif A TPS or throttle position sensor is a potentiometer.

use a vegetable oil cooking spray to make the throttle bodies slide into the rubber easier.

I am afraid Guzzi wouldn't give you a decal much less a driveshaft. Please do take it to a machine shop or driveshaft rebuilder and see what they can do and how much?

You can simulate heat with a heat gun or hair dryer if it only does this during normaloperating temperature. Figure which terminals you want to hook your DVOM or analog meter to and set on ohm scale. Slowly open the throttle to wide open and back to idle. If you are going to see a glitch it will be in the normal throttle position (angle) at highway speed. This is because this is the position the wiper is in contact with the other portion of the (potentiometer) TPS. The ohm scale reads from 0-999, then 1000 or 1k, then up to 999k, then 1,000,000 or 1 meg. HTH Gene

Forget the paint marks for now. Can you slide the shaft apart and rotate one half of the shaft 1/2 turn and reassemble the driveshaft to see if it aligns any better? Do you know anything about the history of the bike? If you cannot get this to align correctly, it mighy be time for another driveshaft. BTW, is there a machine shop nearby you can take this to before you reinstall it?

If you have not reassembled the bike, pry one of the seals out of the bearing and fill the bearing with wheel bearing grease. Do this to both bearings to prevent water intrusion and add to the life of the bearing. Please practice prying these seals out of the old bearing to understand what and how you are doing this.

My hat's off to you !

Tracking = when the rear wheel follows directly behind the front wheel correctly,is the object of this procedure is very important. Use any device you want as long as the tools you use are straight. I use the bulbs because they are light.

HOLD ON ! I meant 8'(foot) bulbs. Don't know what size you use? 2m perhaps? Have a buddy hold each bulb against each side of the rear tire with the longer portion(s) toward the front. These bulbs will give you an actual line to see any offset. Then (holding the front wheel straight ahead) measure the clearance on each side of the front wheel. This will vary with tire sizes so I will not give you any dimensions. You can decide how much you need to move the swingarm left of right to gain proper clearance. I hope this helps. Gene

Amen ! make sure you do this. It is easier than you think. I use 6" flourescent bulbs along with a helper to do this. You want equal clearances between the front wheel and bulbs.

If you can't get speedy service call Joe Eish 330-738-3944. Great man to deal with.