gstallons

Empty ? How much fluid did you add ? Be specific ! First thing , YOU purchase enough to refill the gearbox . Next drain the oil from the gearbox and inspect the fluid That has come out. Be sure you are draining and refilling the gearbox in the correct spots. Someone had refilled the gearbox at the rubber plugs going into the clutch housing area with bad results. Let us know what happens

I have a leakdown tester somewhere I will loan you to do what you want . Let me know and I will look for it .

Did this shop try heating it up w/a torch to bend it back ? I don't suppose there are ANY salvage yards there so you might try eBay or a MG dealership to get another one ?

IDK how much the heat shield "material" would affect the temp. difference , I know it would alter the heat transfer..... It would be a good idea to maybe put extra between the tank and engine area just in case .

They started plating the center / ground electrodes to prevent wear of the material and increasing the air gap. The better the plating material , the longer the lifespan . It ain't gonna prevent build-up like is on Docc's spark plugs . I am still "sitting on the toilet" musing about what caused the breakdown on the bike yesterday . the fact it was a no start after a hot-soak....hmmmmm. Chemtronics sells Freeze Spray . r-134a in a can that will COOL down any electrical component to diagnose "if" it is the fault. BTW , Docc , these smaller relays will get so hot you are going to think they will melt . Mini and Micro relays are used in everything and I cannot understand why they are put in high current situations.

IDK why these bikes EAT spark plugs . The deposits on the plugs do not look good but there is nothing you can do easily to fix this condition.

AFA spark plugs , I have to keep 4 NGK spark plugs here at the shop all the time . If the bike does not start , I have to put new plugs in.

The rest of the diagnosis is needing to be packing a spark tester. If you had more than three hands you could unscrew a spark plug cap and hold the end of the plug wire near the head while cranking to test for spark. The fuel pump (vapor lock) issue would be up to you to diagnose. You would have to remove a lot of stuff (on the side of the road) to test fuel pressure .

Sounds like you had a disappointing day . Relay #1 is working because the starting motor works. Relay #2 is working because the headlamp is ( I assume) working ? The way to verify it is working (since you don't wont to lean over the bike) is to push the horn button. Relay #3 is working because the starter is allowed to crank. Relay #4 is working because it supplies +to Relay #5 Relay #5 would give you evidence of working when the fuel pump would (make noise) function . The #5 relay controls the + to the fuel injectors , ign. coils and the fuel pump.

As in 43 deg C ? AKA 109 deg F

Moral of the story : if your bike sits for 6 months or more , remove the tank , examine the air filter and evict all squatters.

Today , I decided to see why the fuel pump would not energize on the black frame bike . Removed the tank to get to the + and - wires to energize the pump . Easier said than done. I had to remove the air filter cover to gain good access to the pump. Sidetrack . Just for the heck of it I thought I would take a look at the air filter . I pulled the air filter out of the housing along with a mouse nest complete with a field mouse running up my arm making a fast getaway ! This critter had enough junk to stop the flow completely and chewed up 1/2 of the filter . I removed the pump and applied jumper wires from a car battery and it was locked up . Reversed the leads and still locked up . Ordered a new pump , shutoff and air filter from MG Cycle and went to NAPA for new fuel lines. I will never understand what possessed my to remove that filter just to see what it looked like . I do know it could have wrecked my engine if I had kept it in there and ran it like that . YUCK .

Instead of editing info out , I should have left everything in . I keep forgetting not everyone was as much an explorer as I was.

Listen , pot made music sound better than it ever sounded before . It also affected your sense of taste the same way .

You should be old enough to remember 33 1/3 LPs and 45s playing on a stereo phonograph . Then 8-tracks , cassettes, CDs and on and on. BTW , we used to have a RCA Victrola that would play 78s . These records were as heavy as a flywheel . The big fun was to play 33s on 45 or 78 RPM or any combination of speeds. They would sound like Frankenstein or Alvin & The Chipmunks . Also to remove the center disc from a 45 where it would be off center and sound silly . We would laugh until we peed all over ourselves .

You get what you pay for .

Please let us know how it is going .

You be absolutely , positively SURE this throttle plate is closed to verify a closed throttle. Fast idle linkage and throttle stop are OFF Most Cat stuff here uses Deutch terminals , is this an old jumper harness . BTW , using t-pins in the pcm harness is the thing until you can get a Casper kit . Both my bikes show around 550mV KOEO w/no fast idle cam applied. This is at idle throttle plate setting.

Yeah , 15-18 v could make things exciting !

IDK why I didn't think of this til now.... Remove the seat and use t-pins (or you can use sewing needles) to go down into the pcm harness (leave the harness connected to the pcm) at pin 1 and at pin 11 with them connected to the DVOM . W KOEO you can get your voltage reading there . This is what I did before I got my Casper harness.

I would use a ring terminal and crimp it to the wire as good as possible and use screws to connect it to the CB instead of the push on terminals

I am beginning to think these wiring harnesses are like ignition keys . They are exclusive to each bike .

Looking at three different diagrams . 99 V11 Sport , my 02/03ish V11 Sport and a 04V11 Sport Catalytic . They are all different . Do you have your owner's manual w/a wiring diagram attached to the last page ? TJH , you have your old TPS , hook a DVOM up to the terminals on resistance scale Go from a to b and measure the value . Go from a to c and measure the value. The combination that gives you the least value is what you are you are looking for. Use pliers , screwdriver or something to turn the inside of the TPS to move it. Watch for resistance change. You are practicing for checking the mV reading on your bike . IDK how proficient you are w/a meter so I hope this goes well get a jumper harness and hook it up to your TPS and make the adjustments . You can stick T-pins in the wiring connectors and try to get an adjustment.

According to one diagram A (violet) is v source and C (violet/black is signal return . Maybe red frames . Then another diagram shows A (violet) as v source and B (yellow) is signal return . Black frames ? And what is bad , I used this harness to adjust TPS on my red frame and black frame bikes. You practice on the TPS that is not on the bike and see what you get . BTW , is your bike a red or black frame ? The outer terminals on the connector are the ones I am using to test TPS v. A is violet , B is yellow and C is violet/black stripe. Good luck .

I went o/s and found my leads , it is A to C you hook up to in order check the v on the TPS . BTW , go ahead and get the jumper harness. You want to get perfect readings on this adjustment.