gstallons

maybe you should watch National Lampoon's Vacation before coming over here !

I'm sure you kept this opinion to yourself ! Calculate the most you think it's gonna cost and double it .

The starter relay mod (as pictured ) is THE mod to perform as it keeps the current off the micro relay and onto a conventional mini ISO relay to power the starter solenoid. IDK why these companies run the high current through light switches , starter solenoids ,etc. knowing this is a Mickey Mouse setup . I used a weatherproof mini ISO relay and connector to operate the starter solenoid .

IIRC , I got one at Auto Zone a while back and I thought it was a reasonable price .

According to my Waytek catalog this Picker relay has 5 pins w/30a n.o. (to feed the headlights) contact rating and 25a n.c. (to operate the starting motor) rating. Three terminals are 1/4 blades and two terminals are 3/16 wide. and should work . Temp operating range is -40c to 125c . Sounds good to me.

igor , this relay APPEARS to have only 4 terminals . You want to use a relay w/5 terminals because one of the relays (starter) powers the headlight relay when the starter is not activated . It is best to have all relays the same in case you are caught and need to swap relays around. I can't remember if the OMRON relay G8HE-1C7t-A-DC12 is still available or not ? Mine came from Digi-Key . Feb 2017. They are still in the bag they came in . Omron is the relay of choice here .

Do you have a link to the battery company ? how much ?

Did you get burnt ?

Thanks for finding that procedure Docc . I tried looking for it yesterday and ran out of time. I suppose the o-rings in the original manual shut-off valves had junky 0-rings and couldn't tolerate the alcohol content ? The only way to get quality o-rings is from a good industrial supplier .

Good , you got all the parts ? Do fill this bushing cavity w/grease when you go back together. The wave washer is there to take up slack .

My speedo didn't have no 60mph swing ! No , when you get stopped , diplomacy means everything ! I've gotten out of some pretty big issues being nice . You can tell pretty quick how its' gonna go when the conversation starts ! now , I have watched a LOT of YouTube involving "sovereign citizens" . I can tell you right fast , if I were the law , one of us would spend 48 hrs in the hoosegow. I wouldn't put w/that feces one minute . And , congrats on you and your Quota !

One night I got stopped going into Tamms , Il. going 87 in a 35 . Some fast thinking mentioned "no dash lights" on the 87SE and I was forgiven . That bike loves going fast !

IF you have not located a manual petcock , I found a used one in my stuff. I was sure I had a new one. If you still need it , I can send it to you .

If you are competent , you can do it. Keep wires separated when you do the solder job and use silicone or something non-conductive to hold everything in place when you finish .

No problem . Find a manual petcock along w/any o-rings involved and get rid of the electric one.

Yeah , I would swap that out for a mechanical one. When you install a new one you'll be delighted not to have to use a 18'' pipe wrench to loosen/tighten the shutoff .

Anything is possible. Start eliminating causes. Answer Pressureangle's ?s first. Pay attention to the fuel pump noise when you turn the key on . Battery voltage= Fuel shut-off valve= do you have a mechanic's stethoscope ? If so , you might be able to hear it energize . That doesn't mean it opened . How difficult is it to disconnect the fuel line and see if fuel flows when you turn the key on ? I hope you are running ZERO alcohol fuel . this fuel w/alcohol content is not good on things Spark= have you removed the spark plug and reconnected the lead laying it over against the head and cranked to see spark ?

In Ky there are all kinds of rules/limits on annual mileage / operating in parades , just a bunch of things to dissuade you from considering a vintage plate.

Harper's has the best inventory but they mark the prices up above list price . I would try Google to see how many dealers there are in a 250 mile radius and go from there.

Yes ' replace them as a safeguard .

Moto Guzzi prices on the two shift parts are around $100 . Take your stuff to a machinist and get their opinion . You may want to go together w/new stuff

I would get prices and availability on these two parts. If these are a crazy #s , I would grind a gap in the clamping area and tighten it down to verify it will hold and go back together . You can (after you get finished) drill and pin it w/a roll pin to keep it from slipping .

IF this shifter assy. is on the bike and is working condition, move the shift lever up and down and verify the foot lever and the lever inside the frame have no slack and this is tight . Morse = ? are you referring to the splines ? These 0-rings are nothing more than dust shields to keep out "bad stuff" and the wave washer or spring keeps the side (in & out) motion to a minimum . IDK how thick this frame tube is where the shift shaft goes through. I drilled / tapped the shift lever (not the frame) on the red frame for a grease fitting to keep the shift lever happy. You will have to see what you have to work with and decide if you can do this .

squiz= ?

When you have this back together , are you using the pinch bolt 10 to clamp the gearchange lever to the 12 shaft of the shift lever ? This is what holds these two components together and should keep them from sliding apart. Also , when you finish this project , you can drill / tap for a grease fitting on the bike frame where this lever pivots and be done w/any future problems.