gstallons

What kind of brackets for what kind of bike? never mind, your problem sounded familiar. Deja vu all over again !

This came from the latest issue October 2008 pg.4. Jack L.Thomas. The article never said the stand fell off. The problem was clearance when making a l.h. turn. This notice I sent out was a caveat not an edict. If I owned a Norge I would go and look at it to see if I would want to chance this from happening. Contact J.Thomas and ask his advice.

After I posted all that exercise I remembered (lying in bed) that I left out the clutch switch test. "Pay no attention to the man behind that curtain"! * * The Wizard of Oz

If anty of you own a Norge or know someone who does, you need to remove it NOW. I have heard of them dragging on l.h. turns. After reading my MGNOC newsletter that thing would be coming OFF! A member wrote in where he had a wreck from the centerstand catching or digging into the pavement and causing a bad wreck. The dealer did not install a shorter bumper on the stand with some new mods. The dealer went out of business and the owner went to the hospital. I would recommend removing the centerstand completely. I have had some parking lot thrills with sidestands and I can't imagine a 50 mph pole vault like this...

Before you start, do you own and can you use a test light? If you answered yes to both ?s good. #1 is the neutral light on?If not check the neutral switch on the shift cover on the trans. If is on, touch the test light to the small wire on the starter and push the start button. If the light is off the problem is with the start wiring circuit. If the light is on the problem is elsewhere. #2 touch the test light to the battery cable at the starter solenoid.It should be on at all times. If you hear a click ( the solenoid functioning),touch the test light to the other large terminal at the solenoid. If it does not light the problem is in the solenoid. If it does light the problem is in the starter. p.s. I hope you have a magnifying glass and your owners manual to look at the wiring diagram.

What type of grease are you all using on these pucks? Is there any long term affect on the rubber?

When you consider how critical fuel pressure and volume are you will understand why you are going to replace the filter. The filter is in the tank on the fuel pump module. I don'tknow if the filter is the same part # for internal or external part. I would change this every other year and cut the old filter in half and examine the filter media to justify why you are doing this.

You will not be able to "see" a result as you clean,just spray and work the stem in and out while you are spraying the cleaner.

Attractive.......No! But I would like to look at it up close. I think a person would want to look at it and ask the builder about his interpretaion of his design and lines of the bike.

Disconnect the wire at the neutral switch, turn the key on, ground the wire to a good ground and look to see if the light is "on". It should be. If so, remove the switch, and clean it with electrical contact cleaner. DO remember to plug the hole where the switch was or you will have gearbox oil running out .

Check for .010" or .25mm air gap between the roller and fast idle cam with no "choke" . Since this is just a fast idle it does not enrichen anything. look to se if the idle increases with the lever pushed "full on". If it doesn't, start looking. p.s. I use this only when I start the bike and get off to do something like putting on riding gear.

Same here. Always 1/8 to 1/4 throttle to start.

Does anyone have any soft bags and mounts for a V11? I didn't realize how scarce these were until some went on ebay a month ago. UGH! Please contact ASAP!

Have you tried Gustafson(sp) ?

MosowPhil has the best advice... Do it!!!!

UGLY !!!!!

Contact Euromotoelectric. He is the man when it comes to this stuff. He advertises in the MGNOC newsletter.

Pinking? Just joking.. I ALWAYS run Premium gasoline in any bike.I feel better about it. All my buddys run as cheap as fuel as possible.

A friend was talking to someone that had the 20k mi. drive belt replaced on his F800 for about $775. These new BMWs are so ugly you would wear a full-face helmet so no one would recognize you.

At least it doesn't have 100,000 miles on it!

My post NEVER mentioned a battery tender. I suppose I should have said a standard battery charger. Yes, if a battery is dead, you will want to start at a high rate of charge to get the charging "in motion" before charging at a low rate. a high rate of charge will heat and warp the plates in a lead acid battery. The plates in a gel battery are held in place better (with glass fibre mats) to prevent this. A standard battery charger puts out around 12-14v(on a 12v setting) output. The only thing you can manually alter is the amperage output of the charger.Again I say to charge the battery overnight on a slow rate of charge to FULLY charge the battery and use a dvom to verify the battery has a stable 12.65v after removeng the charger and letting it set for about 5 min. to settle.

#1 make absolutely sure you have at least 12.65 v prior to attempting to starting. Use a dvom to check this voltage level. My girlfiend's V45 magna will not start unless the battery is fully charged! It will crank but not start. A fully charged 12 volt battery will read 12.65 volts. #2 always charge any battery as slow as possible. This is using the lowest rate of charge on the chager. Through experience, you cannot accurately charge a battery on a fast charge rate or by starting and running the bike even running it all day.

I fond them on ebay.The seller has his own part #s.

"Sta-bil" is a fuel stabilizer for the fuel tank. Put some in,crank and run the engine and let it mix with the fuel for a few minutes. Fill the tank up with fuel after finishing. Do NOT start and run the bike til you are ready to ride next year. A factory stand is the thing to buy to keep the bike on. You can go to a hardware store and buy a small studded swivel wheel like goes on a creeper to put on the lever part of the stand. To find out where to drill the hole, just rub the lever on the ground (concrete) to se the scuff mark. drill and mount the wheel and you can move the bike easily. This takes care of flat spots on the tire and mobility problems.

I can't think of enough reasons to do this as I can enough drawbacks. the pressure regulator is attached to the tank. You will have to remove it from the tank or buy another one and attach it to the "other tank". I assume yours has an external pump. Remember you are playing with 30-60 p.s.i. of gasoline. I suppose you could mount the tank to something and run supply and return lines to the bike. If the pump is internally mounted you will need to fab a longer wiring harness to power the pump.