gstallons

When you remove the throttle plates,scribe (with an awl) the throttle plate to throttle shaft alignment to get them back together properly. Make an arrow to mark "up" on the throttle plate and do ONE throttle body at a time. Some throttle plate to shaft screws are staked or "loctite" on. On these I don't know. Good luck!

I suppose you are bidding on them on ebay? If so ,we are wondering the same thing?

EVERY bike is different. My 87SE either starts on the first cylinder that comes up and hits like a shotgun at 270 and 450 degrees ( a rush I can't describe). If it doesn't you will swear the starter will not have enough to make one more revolution. But it does start.... My K100 starts right up or cranks 5 seconds . The V11 starts right up or has an extended crank time. They are like women: every one and every time is different enough to make you think when you "get on" Remember this and cherish each time it starts , you get what you put into the experience. .

Remove the whole assy. from the bike. There's a clip that holds the pin in place.Remove it,tap out the pin and watch things fly. find all those parts, spray a dry film graphite on them. Reassemble and have a place for your "putty tat" to rest her feet.

wiring diagrams are are drawn as seen.schematics are drawn as in theory of operation .

You had better look at the pictures again...The wheels look that good!

Don't let $2500 stand between you and ecstacy ! There was a bike featured on this site last month from around georgetown,ky. They look GOOD!!!!

My 87 SE had a small birthday candle in the headlamp cavity and would burn up the $170 headlamp swich about every two years. I got the headlamp relay kit and PIAA bulb from MotoInternational. After installation I wired (soldered) a diode into the wiring harness so both hi/low beams would burn on hi beam. WOW!! I can ride at night now ! Lesson.. For what it's woth,the relay is the current carrying device instead of the switch,put the relay kit on and run the ground strap from the steering head to the frame. You probably don't want to price the switch for the V11s......

When you remove the grease fitting this will allow the excess grease to come out when you push the driveshaft back together. Make sure the driveshaft is in time (this is when both yokes in a straght up and down position) when sliding the tubes together.Some shafts are made to where the splines will go together ONLY one way. After reassembly you can grease the slip yoke grease fitting. Good luck!

Guzzi did not fit the fuel filter and pump in a standard location. Yours is in the "best" location for cooling fuel going into the fuel injection system. The regulator on my bike is locted below the oil cooler and between the horns. My pump is between the lh cyl.head and frame, the filter is on top of the frame.The regulator is a snap to get to. If you have to remove the fuel filter you will lose an amount (small or a lot) of gasloine with aluminum washers on banjo fittings (if they are so equipped). If you need to remove anything keep a visual picture of what is coming off. BTW, the owner you talk to at EME is not some dummy reseller, he knows what he is doing.Do not be afraid to call him up and ask him ?s. when people are making a sale they are more apt to talk about the field in which they are associated with.

After looking at a 2003 non O2 sensor wiring diagram; the r-n (red/neutral?) wire goes to the stoplight switches. The az wire goes to the charge light. The r-ve wire goes 9through the fuse panel) to the battery + . The remaining 2 (yellow?) wires go to the alt. Test the integrity of the wire from the regulator with a test light and voltmeter.Use ana analog meter to induce a load on the circuit. If it shows ok,proceed with the connections to the alternator and to the charge bulb. I like the idea of using a maxi-fuse instead of the ATO fuse. After you get this working correctly you should modify it. I suspect the regulator if the wiring integrity is good. You should call EuroMotoelectric for parts. He advertizes in the MGNOC newsletter. Google it if you are not a member. HTH! gene

I guess you spent most of the money drinking , chasing women and squandered the rest?

Unfortunately the starter does not affect alternator output.If you have FULLY charged the battery and it starts OK, then you will rule out the starter. I will look at noon at a wiring diagram on my 2003 sport and see if it gives any clue as to what to look for. BTW,are there any alternator rebuilders in your area? If so they can test the voltage regulator and rule it out or the culprit. Gene

was that about 2 months pay for the time? I remember when $35 per oz of columbian pot was TOOO much money!

YEOW!!!! I didn't know Nakamichi was THAT high end ! I did find one on ebay "still in the box" for $900 buy it now. I don't have that many casettes.

Those things are called "investments". That's what you call them when you are explaing the purchase to your other half..

I would suspect one of the rectifiers in the alternator. can you use a DVOM with a diode function or an analog meter?

Congratulations on your joining the "club". The unfornate thing is not being able to ride together but limited to online visits only. The solace is intelligent conversation, a great source of knowledge and camaraderie. Don't worry about your "English", only the the people on the British Isles do it justice. The rest of us play with it.

i suppose yours flips the cassette around when it changes from side 1 to side 2 ? My buddy had one and i think he would beat off every time it did this...

FIRE !!!

Did you re-map the Powercommander ECU ?Also, have you been fiddling with knobs on the exterior of the PC ecu? The shop that re-mapped mine said to leave them alone. You cannot have any worse low speed problem than mine. The shop that did mine took one shot and cured ALL my troubles. p.s. My bike's performance went to hell after synchronizing throttle bodies and t.p.s. adjustment. Then the bike was fixed by re-mapping by a qualified technician.

Does this bike have a generator or alternator?

WhenI used the word "chip I was referring to the computer. The Powercommander is a computer to itself that is wired in series withe the factory computer. You take it out of series to test to see if you have the same symptoms. I have not looked inside the factory computer to see if there is a removeable DIP (dual inline package) or EPROM to change.

Make SURE the problem is not the shift lever pivot is not the culprit. I waited 2 weeks for a shift spring,started disassembling the bike and found the shift pivot bolt oxidized (rusty) just enough to make the shift lever stick in the down position. F**k !! I removed the bolt and lubricated the bushings and bolt and PRESTO!!! Problem solved. I bought the spring from www.cannonracecraft.com. p.s. when you remove the pivot bolt the nut is a lock-nut and the frame is threaded also. Reomve the nut before removing the bolt.

They used Florida voting software....