gstallons

Please, don't hold us in suspense...........You didn't do like Robert Pirsig, when he trailered his bike home to find he had ran out of gas?

Get the bike, make love to it for a couple of weeks, then decide IF you want do anything about the paint job.............

There is a product "Stabilant 22" available at auto parts stores that sell Standard Ignition parts. It is a conductor enhancing liquid I apply to connectors that are exposed to moisture or low amperage that will experience problems with continuity. It is NOT cheap but it is effective! p.s. I do not like bullet connectors any more than anyone else so make sure they are a tight fit.

When the time comes, go to a hardware store, auto parts store or a FASTENAL (they sell fasteners,etc.) store. Buy metric washers for your application.There are metric "wave" washers that I like best. Also Fastenal sell "Shnorr" brand washers that are top notch! Always use some sort of washer with a nut or bolt. Re-read Ratchethach's input....

Who is the winner?

Picture #1,2 Just from looking I would say just push the white portion and the black portion together and then (while holding them together) slide the connector off the fitting. Picture # 3,4,etc. The one hose with no clamp(gently) pulls off. If you can get a 90 degree pic (tool) and use a lubricant toget between the hose and fiting ,it will make it easier to remove.The last picture is of a vale tha allows air into the tank and will not allow fuel to travel out. The lines with the clamps are supposedly non-reusable. You can slide a small screwdriver blade or ice-pic to pry the clamp open. Do not do this with applying pressure to the pipe or fitting. You do NOT want to break anything , remember plastic,fibre-glass,aluminum,etc. will not tolerate much twisting or bending. The clamps can be reused with recrimping or if you are scared you can use worm type hose clamps. REMEMBER; ALWAYS LABEL LINES TO GET THEM BACK IN THEIR PROPER PLACE!!!!!!!!!!!!! After 20 min. all hoses look identical.

I can certainly use it!!!!!! My address is. Gene Stallons 2403 crews rd Wickliffe, ky 42087 Where to and how much on the cost?

Jf you were able to turn the key off when you got off at the end of the ride you're o.k. I'm sure the Ballabio has bars instead of clip-ons. I own a 87 lemans se. After I get off an hour long ride, it is all I can do turn the ign.switch to the off position. You are going to have to get used to the pain or excercise your arms and wrists.......

I have an excellent idea.... You,daddy and sonny boy take daddy's car out for a spin and duplicate the joy ride to see who is responsible for what? Keep the trans. in low range for the best results .....I would not help him ANY with parts and or labor. Your friendship is over either way. Also the plain shell bearings use babbet (solder yes solder) as the final part of the bearing shell. This composition must be hard enough to last and soft enough to absorb (bury) foriegn matter to not score the shaft journals. This babbet is probably .0015" thick so there isn't room to flog very long with no oil.

Dimitris, The voltage of the t.p.s should not matter. Did this operate ok before the modifications? When did this the problem start ?

Anything...... replace it..ride it today and see what happens. By the way,have you washed the bike? Also buy a fuse assortment and make sure it a name brand,e.g. "BUSS" . Make sure you have extras with you or on the bike. These fuses are color coded so you won't have to spend time guessing amperage ratings!

Remove each fuse,hold it up to the (sun)light to see if the fuse is ok or blown.You need to own a test light and ohm meter. Have a friend ( that knows how) to show you how to use them to check continuity,voltage,etc.. Lights are usually fused and sometimes operated through relays.I am not near a wiring diagram or I could be more specific.

Can you explain the earplug ticket???????????

That is HIS problem.

Look back to savagehenry's reply..........

No, You do not HAVE to install the Roper plate and you don't have to pull the pan to change the oil filter. You don't have to wear a condom. You can't put a condom on after the fact either. Your reluctance tells me you're not a mechanic. Find someone who is, and ask them to help you a couple of times and ask them to explain the theory (or you can read the thread) about the plate. Same goes for the filter. Remember that attaching the clamp on the filter will not give you the ultimate experience of engine failure. Remember the airplane analogy...

D, You will find the pan removal a part of the ritual,have plenty of gaskets around for spares (along with the Roper windage tray you will install) and the inspection of the engine internals. When you r&r the filter you will get used to "just right". There is no law against practicing with the old filter,on & off as many times as you want til you feel comfortable. To me the idea of putting a hose clamp on an oil filter is the most ridiculous idea ever thought up. Also if this powerplant was and is on an airplane I would be UPSET if it was not applied to the filter that backed off and caused an engine failure at 5k ft. altitude. With that logic in mind place the clamp on the filter body where it will stop filter rotation IF it ever starts reverse rotation. So what if it takes you an hour to service the bike it is your metal sex machine!

Just ONE pole vault with the side stand and your life will be forever changed! You won't need any device of any kind to remind you to make sure the sidestand IS up.

The friction material in non-organic brake pads is manufactured from man-made products. You can go to brake manufacturer's website for more info and recommendations

IF there are no dowel pins holding this cover on you can "breake loose" this cover by striking it from the side to loosen it. Most sealers have little or no "shear" strength. This means side to side movement. I use either Yamabond or Loctite makes an anaerobic sealer (515 ?)that is great HTH gene

Not all people in any profession are BAD. The best "engineer" I have EVER met is a life long friend named James Mariner. he can fabricate just about ANYTHING. This man has a skimpy high school ed. He can straighten wheels, frames, con. rods, relace spoke wheels. If it is mechanical he can fix,repair,explain just about anything. If you met him he would be the most unassuming person in the room. I feel that trial and error is still a good method of improvement. This method is VERY expensive now and a person must rely on experienced results from friends when making modifications. That is why I joined this group and offer my input. p.s. If I ever get the chance to go to any rallys close to me I hope to get the chance to talk to y'all personally.

Believe me, I'm no disciple of engineers either.If you thing engineers are working in your best interests,try changing a heater core in your car. In dealing with US made autos "someone" has spent a long time(30 yrs) putting junk under the hood trying to improve mileage and performance. In the early 80s everyone's fix was to remove ALL the pollution controls to make them run BETTER. It didn't work all of the time. I agree that everything is put on to pass emission/performance goals @ X rpm. Engineers have to secure THEIR future.If some at TERMINEX came up with a product that killed all the pests,what would they do next year for business? I would hope Italian m/cyce companies (MG) are pursuing improvements and perfection. YES, I play with my bikes all of the time. There are things I install and things I remove. We do this ourselves to make us happy. I do not install cow magnets or clothes pins on my fuel lines,put mothballs in the fuel tank or any other TV advertised "fix".

I am a mechanic (37 yrs) and a vocational teacher (2 yrs) and am beginning to think like my father "if they wanted that s&*t on there they would have put it on there" My little brother quoted George Carlin about this. "You know what scares me is I'm beginning to agree with my Dad. And he's NOT gettin' any cooler!"

My input wasn't meant to discount any findings from guzzitech or anyone else.

All older vehicles with dual exhaust and m/cycles like triumph had the "H" pipe on them. These exhaust "pulses" do something in this crossover .'They traditionally helped horsepower and or torque . Believe me , no unnessary parts are on motorcycles or airplanes. MG would not have that pipe on there if the engineers didn't think it wasn't needed. I would take the word of a dyno before I removed this part.