gstallons

I never knew about Peter Green's Fleetwood Mac until about 10 yrs ago. Whew , what they were vs what they became . I will never understand . Homogenized , pasteurized, sanitized and commercialized .

Everything I post is from memory. I merely said IDK enough to explain them . I know what DIN stands for . It is German and it is similar to our JIC ( Joint Industry Council) and SAE (Society of American Engineers ) . I am not familiar enough to recognize & explain the fittings. Also , Loctite "purple" would have told me all I needed to know.

If the fittings were loose , this should TCB . Where did you apply this Loctite "stuff" ?

At least 3 gears ? You did have 6 before ? Remove the sensor/switch and look down into the bore to see if the switch contact is in the center of the bore . If so the problem is the switch . Take and clean it with contact cleaner and I mean clean and reinstall. If not , you know what you have to do !

Musicians at that time migrated from one group to the next as a part of life . There was no future only today and maybe , tomorrow. Musicians got together and jammed until they were done and played with someone else !

You "probably" did . AN (Army Navy) was developed during WWII for the military and stayed with them. JIC (Joint Industry Council) uses the same stuff for civilian use . IT is interchangeable. O-ring face seal or flat face o-ring is on a LOT of hydraulic fittings now because of assembly speed. I don't care for this too much. DIN is a European hose connection . IDK enough about DIN fittings to explain them.

I can tell you now . They aren't AN / JIC fittings . AN and JIC are the same. I think this is a DIN 24 or DIN 60 . I THINK some of these have o-rings and some don't . You can remove this assy and see if it has an o-ring in the hose or not. Very important ! When you break this loose , hold the fitting tight that goes into the head . 14mm or 9/16 wrenches . When you break this loose , hold the hose with a pair of channel/lock pliers or needle nose vise grip pliers to keep the hose from unwinding with the nut. W/that being said , IDK if a hydraulics shop can match you up w/the correct o-ring or not. If so , get new crush washers , o-rings and go back together . If not , get the hose assy. mentioned earlier.

Definitely speaking for myself : AFA the driveshaft integration , everything looks the same until you lay things down next to each other. Reverse trike . 2 wheels in front & ! in the rear ? Doing a trike / you need to discuss this with someone has done this before . I don't know anyone on this forum that has done this before , they will have to come forward and offer help or advice . There is a place nearby in Murray ,Ky...www.hannigantrikes.com and they started out w/BMW trike conversions and now will do (most) all conversions. You can see what they are up to.

That is BAD . You should be able to pick up those parts from eBay in Europe very reasonable in price . AFA the hard starting , keep non-ethanol fuel in your bike and ride it as much as possible .

looks pretty good !

Not to be a smart a$$ but what's under the tank ? There is a wiring harness connector.

Hey ! How have you been ?

I thought the same thing but I thought it would be blasphemy to say it !

your's ?

You measure 11.6-11.8v at the fuses. What do you get at the battery ? You may want to install a battery charger to keep the battery "up" while you are working on this . Pacify me and put a test light on both sides of those 6 & 7 fuses and does the fuse remain lit and does the R-BI (IDK what colors they are) end of the flasher connector light up ?

You know before you get done , you will have your bike in the kitchen or living room with your wife holding the test light and voltmeter . and sorry , my electronics instructor always said "B +" and I have maintained that term .

Do you have your owner's manual ? The wiring diagram should be on the inside of the last page .

The last fuse holder is open and does nothing.

AFA ; park lamp circuit . If the park lamp works in the headlamp and the speedo lamp works , the rear license plate light should work. Again , make sure you have tested the fuse 7 for B+ and applied B+ to the output of fuse 7 to see if the turn signals work . Do NOT forget to turn L or R turn signal switch "on" . Consider , we may not all be looking at the same wiring diagram . Mine is a 2003 model mfd. in 2002 . external fuel pump , etc... Please perform each test and suggestion as though only one person is giving you advice . Don't bundle this info together and make a mess .

If you have headlights , your switch should be ok. F 6&7 share B+ going into the fuse holder.

Perform the test MotoKnee recommends and report . Don't worry about the ign. switch until it is time to worry about the ign. switch.

Before you start , do your headlamps , horn , dimmer switch , etc. work? There may be a problem at the 10 pin connector going to the switchgear . Don't worry about this yet. Alright. It is time for you to start thinking . * # 1 new flasher installed . still no flasher. Get your test light** and see a. w/KOEO , is there 12v at one of the flasher unit connectors ? Y. apply 12v to the other connector (orange wire) to see if all the turn signal lamps light up. they should. If so you still have a bad flasher unit. Install a good known flasher and retest. N . go back to F 7 and check for B+ at both ends of the fuse. B+ ? Y , the problem is between the F 7 and flasher connector. * w/ea step , verify, verify, verify. You don't want to proceed until you are sure you pass/fail your current test. You don't want to waste your time rushing through this procedure. ** use a test light . Not a LED test light . You will learn about them later.

That is your purpose !

MmmmMmmm

Uhhh . Blue/Maize . Michigan Wolverine colors. I'm sorry , I had to look to be sure