gstallons

IDK what the OEM number of ring terminals are to a V11 + and - battery terminals are but look / dig around everywhere to find everyone of them . AFA the N light not working , lay the bike over GENTLY to remove the N light switch wire ant touch it to a good ground w/KOEO and see if it comes on . IF it does remove the switch and clean it thoroughly w/contact cleaner and work it a lot to get it working . You can buy a new one but this is easy to do .

What brand is the rear tire on the Coppa ?

Are their bikes having rocker arm problems now ?

For now mak the position of all the relays swap any of #s 2-5 . They only use 4 of the relay pins . You can't have 4 bad relays . How good are you w/a test light , DVOM , advice and a wiring diagram ?

stop the vultures to break the company or from breaking the company ?

That is why we are gonna get to the bottom of this ! I am shooting for poor contacts at Relay # 3 . IF the blue wire is giving you 7.5v If it is the orange wire the problem will be the ign. switch. AFA I know there are 3 components in a original w factory setup .

Disconnect your splice(at time of failure) and tell us which wire and color has 7.5v plz.

Exactly which wire (color) has 7.5v and is it still 7.5v ?

BTW . "starter interruptus" has 300 variations , so ........

ALL the wires need to be connected to the battery before you start . Get a good battery. AZ (I think) sells Odyssey along w/a military discount . The only battery to buy. You can hop it around to other bikes if needed.

Well , I would appreciate involvement . As in keeping us up to date....

Well , Ouji , have you got anything to report ?

Joe , I had to look those names up !

Are you speaking from experience ? I remember the first AND ONLY time i was dragging my foot o/s of a 77 Vette pulling it into the shop and almost left my foot under the driver's rear tire !

AFA this Jaguar rebrand : I know what happened to Alissa Heinerscheid and Daniel Blake .

well , IDK what to say

These bikes are like today's cars . You could strip all the badging off all the 4 door cars and could not name three correctly . All the liter bike crotch rockets are the same. And unfortunately that is what sells , along with $3500 worth of space suits , good medical insurance along w long term disability if not funeral policy . YES , they are fun but I can only operate it to about 10% of it's potential .

According to these diagrams , the N light will work with or w/o the relay because the relay's existence has nothing to do w/the light. the light has B+ any time the ign. sw. is "on" and the N switch acts as the ground to turn on the N light !

As you can tell I am better than (I hope) a chimpanzee !

Well , I found this by searching "test point layout" and found it in a 2010 post of Kiwi_Roy's diagram . As you can tell I put it up here and nothing happens ! Anyone else want to improve and open this go ahead on !

https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=11659

Right now I have my hands full of a Polaris 4 wheeler and I will see about this tonight . Mea culpa , maybe ?

I will have to compare (when I get time today) the factory diagram to Kiwi_Roy's diagram and say yes .

Can you explain the theory of operation and the procedure ?