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Everything posted by gstallons
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You want brakes not 99.9999% of the time , you want brakes 100% of the time . Use DOT 4 fluid straight from a new bottle . How many pumps did it take to get a good pedal ? I know counting is the last thing on your mind . Just wondering. Have you ever flushed / bled the rear brake system ?
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Somebody is hi-tech ! What do you get after start-up and the alternator is recharging the battery . I've got a Flir , just never thought of looking at this .
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I installed some TPS sensors on two Dodge vehicles in the last two weeks and my scanner had a "relearn" on the TPS after I installed them . Bolt it up and relearn and it was finished . You didn't have to adjust anything .
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The information I have I had from talking to old mechanics . The stud pulls straight up on the threads whereas the screw twists on the threads .
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Hmmm . They use the lowest # as zero or base throttle angle ?
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Thanx for the clarification . I couldn't see that it would matter , but....
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You did read the last line (in red) that stated Note Not for other Moto Guzzi models
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Peter , take the bike to Roper . He can dial it in . Case Closed
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Yeaahhh , take this thing out of circuit . Then start over. #1 throttle body balance #2 TPS adjustment #3 contact anyone "down there" who can help you set this bike up . You really need to be good electrically , mechanically and have pretty tough skin . When you get this bike set-up properly , you will love it .
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It should be no more than 14v . I will have to go and start mine up ...at rest battery v was 12.4v , after start-up it was like 12.8v. Blip your throttle a few times like 3k or above , At 3k I got 14.5v . AGM batteries are different. Keep this in mind! You always want to blip your throttle or hold it steady above 2500 for a few seconds for the regulator to start working . TRUST ME . I worked on a BMW car for 3 days after I replaced the alternator and it still would NOT charge . For some stupid reason I blipped the throttle and it started charging.
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Have fun , the nicest people have Tn license plates
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Well , you tested a diode . There is more than that taking place in that little box . Get a new one just to test with . If it turns out good , I would buy the best (not most expensive) one available .
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Are you saying the switch is on the suction or pressure side of the oil circuit ?
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One of my best friends had a 320i that set a couple of years . he went to start it and the oil light would NOT go out . He would let it start/run a minute at a time and the light would never go out. I went to his house , removed the oil press. switch , had him start the car . In a few seconds , oil was going everywhere . Reinstalled the switch and closed the hood. These oil pressure switches are not hard to remove on these bikes . It is easier to remove than the engine. If your light will not go out in about 3 seconds , stop the bike and start troubleshooting.
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Transmission problem. Shift Bendix? Any ideas?
gstallons replied to TomH's topic in Technical Topics
AFA the specific amount of oil in a system , I knew a buddy that refilled his rear end in an Ambassador . His bike had a deep pan instead of a shallow pan . He headed to Carbondale on the bike , then trailered it back after it came to a squeaky halt . ALWAYS be sure you fill things up to a proper level . It will save you money in the long run. Also , the vent tube instead of a vent is superior ! -
Transmission problem. Shift Bendix? Any ideas?
gstallons replied to TomH's topic in Technical Topics
Please explain the "slipping out of gear" part . As in , does it go into N from 4 to 3 ? AFA the foamy oil . just inspect it after it has been at rest for a couple of hours . Some lubricants have an anti-foaming agent to stop this . A hydraulic system can not tolerate air in the fluid. A gearbox doesn't like it but it can live w/it. IDK what you are seeing but water in oil will really affect the "color" of oil . -
Are these the guys that sell the hopped up voltage regulator ?
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yep
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For your own benefit , install a stud in that small bolt area on the sidestand bracket . When you tighten a bolt you are screwing a bolt into the threads of the engine block. When you install a stud and tighten the nut , you are pulling on the stud to tighten the sidestand to the engine block. A much better setup and no chance of wearing out the threads in the block .
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I have copies of some charts Kiwi_Roy posted on here a few years ago . I can't find them on this forum or I would repost them . He is MIA and I cant locate him.Hmmmm. I wish I were smart enuf to find things here .
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Transmission problem. Shift Bendix? Any ideas?
gstallons replied to TomH's topic in Technical Topics
It was not cool . More like , "now , you did what" ? -
Fuse Quality and Performance sure makes a difference
gstallons replied to DucatiGuzziIndian's topic in Technical Topics
I looked on the display and they had all kinds of packages . I just got the two kits w/the ATC & ATM fuses. after the nitroglycerin pill they gave me 10 off . I didn't like it but I took it . I can deduct all these irrational expenses , IDK about anyone else .