gstallons

Don't worry about it . You WILL know a bad axle when you see it . Also , when you slide your hand up & down the axle shaft length (while wearing a brown jersey glove) and if you feel bad spots om the show up , replace it .

These Ambassadors have a taste of their own.

You got that right !

That'll work ! You are removing the current from the starter switch / relay ,etc. and running it through the "new" path of the larger relay and larger gauge wiring to the starter solenoid. If you don't want to make your own , the plug & play kit looks like the way to go ! You will be satisfied w/what you do . p.s. as guzziart said , this is not a cure-all . To verify this is needed , you will have to do some testing . The easiest way to see is to remove the wire that plugs on to the starter solenoid and use a test light to check for v when you attempt to start . If it lights up , plug it back up and see what happens . Then touch the test light to the terminal . If you have a weak or no light , install the kit. If there was no light at the beginning of these tests , your problem needs to be addressed starting from the beginning.

One of the most beautiful tanks/paint schemes of all time.

The reason the rotors wear so much now is , The friction material is harder than in the past , The rotor is lighter (less metal) than in the past. This is done to reduce unsprung weight. this is giving up the width of the rotor and in turn heats up FASTER and wears out faster .

Being nosey , are European boats l.h. steer ? To my knowledge all the boats in the U.S. are r.h. steer.

Nine monkeys ? Not the sound ANYONE is after . These bikes operate in one of two modes / agony or ecstasy.

As I was saying , oil / filters are not that expensive . I have never ruined an engine by frequent oil changes . It is a free country .

No way ! I was at a get-together and there was a girl there with an Audi and she TOLD me , the Audi oil would go 10k because her manual and the Service Dept. told her it would. After a couple of minutes I left her alone and said "good luck" . 5K on synthetic is all I will go . Oil is not that expensive .

Don't grab at straws , do methodical evaluations and testing.

And april of 2009 was the last time .

Hey ! I have one of those "cable lube tools" too !

cash do this , # 1 start your bike and allow it to warm up as you normally do. # 2 pull your clutch lever all the way in and release the lever 10 Xs in a row # 3 put the bike in gear and take off as normal # 4 did you notice ANY difference ? # 5 after you get going for a while, get your bike in 3rd gear and go as slow as possible and roll on the throttle . Does the clutch slip when you do this ? # 6 do the clutch pull test again 10 Xs after the bike is completely warmed up after you get through with your ride. Did you notice ANY difference in the before and after ?

I assume you see no problems in the bore of the m/c ? I am sure you are using DOT 4 fluid ?

BTDT , I topped of my Suzuki (about1 1/2 gallon of diesel ) and did it show , I didn't think I would get home . Drain & refill and it eventually started .

cash , IF there was oil getting into your clutch area and causing clutch slippage , this would not go away after a few kms. Petroleum products on a clutch will stay on a clutch . Can you explain this slippage and how bad , how long it has been going on & how long this occurs .

How does someone that young play that mature ?

A few years ago there was a link (on here) to article involving the topic , It didn't take long to read so I looked at the rest of the page . Then there was an article about BMW riders n shift indicators. They mockingly said " there was a BMW rider that sued BMW because he rode The Iron Butt in !st gear" .

I have seen less than four oil pump problems im 50 yrs of tinkering w/things. Historically , oil filters n o-rings are at the top of the list .

Well G-I-V , what did you find out ?

MG really had some righteous paint schemes on these V-11s . I can't understand these bikes selling OUT immediately when they were put on the showroom floors .