gstallons

Yeaahhh , take this thing out of circuit . Then start over. #1 throttle body balance #2 TPS adjustment #3 contact anyone "down there" who can help you set this bike up . You really need to be good electrically , mechanically and have pretty tough skin . When you get this bike set-up properly , you will love it .

It should be no more than 14v . I will have to go and start mine up ...at rest battery v was 12.4v , after start-up it was like 12.8v. Blip your throttle a few times like 3k or above , At 3k I got 14.5v . AGM batteries are different. Keep this in mind! You always want to blip your throttle or hold it steady above 2500 for a few seconds for the regulator to start working . TRUST ME . I worked on a BMW car for 3 days after I replaced the alternator and it still would NOT charge . For some stupid reason I blipped the throttle and it started charging.

Have fun , the nicest people have Tn license plates

Well , you tested a diode . There is more than that taking place in that little box . Get a new one just to test with . If it turns out good , I would buy the best (not most expensive) one available .

Are you saying the switch is on the suction or pressure side of the oil circuit ?

One of my best friends had a 320i that set a couple of years . he went to start it and the oil light would NOT go out . He would let it start/run a minute at a time and the light would never go out. I went to his house , removed the oil press. switch , had him start the car . In a few seconds , oil was going everywhere . Reinstalled the switch and closed the hood. These oil pressure switches are not hard to remove on these bikes . It is easier to remove than the engine. If your light will not go out in about 3 seconds , stop the bike and start troubleshooting.

AFA the specific amount of oil in a system , I knew a buddy that refilled his rear end in an Ambassador . His bike had a deep pan instead of a shallow pan . He headed to Carbondale on the bike , then trailered it back after it came to a squeaky halt . ALWAYS be sure you fill things up to a proper level . It will save you money in the long run. Also , the vent tube instead of a vent is superior !

Please explain the "slipping out of gear" part . As in , does it go into N from 4 to 3 ? AFA the foamy oil . just inspect it after it has been at rest for a couple of hours . Some lubricants have an anti-foaming agent to stop this . A hydraulic system can not tolerate air in the fluid. A gearbox doesn't like it but it can live w/it. IDK what you are seeing but water in oil will really affect the "color" of oil .

Are these the guys that sell the hopped up voltage regulator ?

yep

For your own benefit , install a stud in that small bolt area on the sidestand bracket . When you tighten a bolt you are screwing a bolt into the threads of the engine block. When you install a stud and tighten the nut , you are pulling on the stud to tighten the sidestand to the engine block. A much better setup and no chance of wearing out the threads in the block .

I have copies of some charts Kiwi_Roy posted on here a few years ago . I can't find them on this forum or I would repost them . He is MIA and I cant locate him.Hmmmm. I wish I were smart enuf to find things here .

It was not cool . More like , "now , you did what" ?

I looked on the display and they had all kinds of packages . I just got the two kits w/the ATC & ATM fuses. after the nitroglycerin pill they gave me 10 off . I didn't like it but I took it . I can deduct all these irrational expenses , IDK about anyone else .

On a lighter note : do you remember when one guy drained the trans. and refilled through the flywheel inspection (rubber) plug ?

Thank you ! While swapping out the fuses on both bikes , I found the 30a fuse on Greenie starting to melt the plastic on the fuse . SO , I start all over and bend the terminals on ALL connectors on ALL the fuse terminals and use a dab of NYE 750G "goo" to help the contact surfaces . I put the old fuses in a baggie and stuck them up in the hole behind the seat . When I got back from my trip to town I found the package from MG Cycle. Now I can install the pump , air filter and fuel shutoff . The strange thing about this shutoff , it does not need a 12 in pie wrench to turn the fuel off/on ! One of these days both of these bikes will be in riding condition !

I bought a Bussman ATC-ID-SK fuse kit w/LED made into the fuse . When the fuse fails , the LED lights up indicating a blown fuse . 7 ea of 5a-30a fuses . These are the best thing I have ever seen . No need for guessing , no test light , no nothin' . this kit was about $64 so it is not for the cheapskates ! When the original fuse fails , install a conventional fuse to see if your problem remains . You don't need a handful of $$$ and still have a problem. BTW , if anyone wants to post a pic of these fuses , go ahead ! [docc added image.]

I would not ride my bike to the end of the driveway (1000') and back w/no oil in the transmission. You have no idea how fortunate you are !

Now , I do not know what the allowed % of leakdown is on this cylinder is . MOST tests allow 5% or less as being perfect . I would test at BDC, halfway and TDC to know how it is doing throughout the cycle. It doesn't take that much more time to do . Use a ratchet/socket on the c/shaft for no surprises ! Watch some YouTube videos to make sure you are happy w/your procedure.

Yep , that will do what you want it to do.

Is this for real ?

Refill capacity is 27-28 oz. If this box was empty , you should have destroyed everything inside. Make sure you have ridden this at least 5 miles to make everything in the gearbox is mixed together , then remove the drain plug and allow just a little to drain (into a white paper plate) and quickly reinstalling the drain plug. Looking at what you have in the plate will tell you what is going on inside . Shift bendix ? That is new to me. A normal motorcycle trans had a shift drum that moves the gears to produce different gear ratios. MG has a different setup .You would just have to look at it to understand how it works .There are adjustments that can be made but you have to be familiar wit this stuff before you start adjusting things .

Nooooo , the most important question is , how much oil did you add to the transmission to get it to the correct level ? Also , I hope the bike is in an upright position when you are doing this .

Empty ? How much fluid did you add ? Be specific ! First thing , YOU purchase enough to refill the gearbox . Next drain the oil from the gearbox and inspect the fluid That has come out. Be sure you are draining and refilling the gearbox in the correct spots. Someone had refilled the gearbox at the rubber plugs going into the clutch housing area with bad results. Let us know what happens

I have a leakdown tester somewhere I will loan you to do what you want . Let me know and I will look for it .