gstallons

Dissimilar metals are the least likely to gall. Think steel shaft/bronze bushing.. Similar metals such as aluminum cannot be threaded together dry . I KNOW .

I know stainless steel is "dry" and I wasn't sure about titanium .

Do ti fasteners require thread lube or anti-seize when you are assembling ?

Well , I would think a part being advertised as "nuclear powerplant quality" would be a little better than 50% successful. Maybe they could use them on submarines or aircraft ? We had a cheapskate purchasing agent that purchased EVERYTHING from eBay , Amazon , Temu , etc. Everything we installed blew up , failed . etc. We got the blame for improper installation . HMMMMMM

This one job we were on , we were installing "nuclear powerplant quality" proximity switched and 1/2 of them would not work "straight out of the box". Must be the ones they used at The Springfield Nuclear Power Plant

Measuring r at pins 4 & 22 , I got 2.81k at an ambient temp of 80 degrees

I should have included that as a good known "understood" e.g.the throttle bodies hanging out of the boots.

No , don't take anyone's input as sarcasm . EVERYONE on this forum wants to help you and wants your bike to run perfect . We just need all work history to give you the best advice and to use the least amount of parts needed . W/that being said , you disconnect the CHT sensor AKA oil temp sensor and it runs better . T or F ? If you have a DVOM disconnect the plug and check the resistance at room temp and let us know . I will check one of mine and see what I read on mine . BTW , the red frame and black frame have this sensor wired to pins 4 & 22 so it will not matter. I know pin 22 is violet and I am not sure about colors of pin # 4.

Please explain "infancy failure" ? Like a new part can fail ?

Please do not tinker , make deliberate decisions and deliberate moves . Did you check the secondary ignition system to see if it is good ? You say you installed a NEW TPS ? I assume you adjusted it properly ? A new injector assembly. What did this consist of ? This is the most delicate bike you will ever own . We all want you happy.

Just asking , does this CVT gear down as you slow down and does the bike slow down like when you gear down on a m.t. bike ?

This fuel injection system on this bike is hokey-pokey compared to all other f.i. bikes. It uses a min. of inputs and a hilarious output. The pcm is mapped (apparently for Lake Como only) for nowhere on the North American continent. Now , for good advice , post everything going wrong with the bike and how long it has been going on . Everything you have done , all parts you have installed and has anything helped ? Please read my story about plug wire caps and don't be afraid to install new spark plugs . NGK is my plug of choice on this bike . Learn how to synch throttle bodies and adjust TPS sensor. If all of this is done perfectly get w/someone about "remapping" your pcm. IF you have an aftermarket module like a PowerCommander piggybacked on this bile , remove it and see what happens . Personally I hate these things. If all this checks out , it's time to remove the injectors and have them professionally cleaned and flow rated to match each other. This is a job because everything is Loctited together. I suppose someone thought of this as an assembly . Keep us posted . We want you to be happy with your bike.

Mmmmm. AVO ? I just Googled it . Now to eBay to get one ! I have been bit using a DVOM looking for V and R in a circuit. Reason : impedance . The DVOM will not load the circuit . An analog meter will. If the circuit will support a test light or an analog meter , I will get a true reading. I had my @ss handed to me diagnosing the A.C. on a Kubota tractor on an island in the Miss. River after about 4 days getting 13v dc at the compressor coil . I put a test light on the + wire of the connector to see the V disappear. Put the DVOM back on the + wire and my 12v reappeared . I found the contacts of the temp control or relay were bad . New part and we were in business . I use a DVOM for entertainment purposes only or when I need an exact "value". BTW , I have two Simpson 260 meters and a SnapOn MT 406 along w/a bunch of things my dad had . It seems funny when you pull these out and people don't have ANY idea what you are holding ! Also , the only time I get offended (spelled perturbed) is when things are not going well w/the conversation .

Have you Googled CF fenders for Ohlins forks? They might not match the factory MG fender.

I don't remember the resistance/ft of non copper HT leads . I used to know . I used to have a meter that connected to each plug wire and gave a digital reading . High Kv output meant an open wire . Low Kv meant a fouled or bad spark plug. The most likely failure on a spark plug wire is an open . On these V11s these wires are copper core so they will / are not prone to failure. Now the resistor cap is designed / used for two reasons. #1 to stop RFI on AM radios . If you are old enough , you will remember the noise a vehicle made w/solid core wires. Also , resistors are made into spark plugs . AC Delco R44TS spark plugs . The R stands for resistor built into the spark plug. #2 Also , the resistor made into the cap give a more precise spark delivery . Weegie , I didn't fool w/the wires because they were difficult to get to and I was satisfied w/my work . I was happy when it started and ran 5 seconds. You have no idea how bad this was running !

I have done .......well , I will have to think about that one for a while .

Ohhhhh , it was personalized ! I had to remove all of this stuff right off the bat . IIRC , he had heater hose over the footpegs and that was the only thing I will confess to .

Helmets are like BBQ sauce . What you love , I just might turn my nose up to. A while back this progressive motorcycle shop was closing and I went over in hopes of getting a bargain on a NAME brand helmet . The owner told me "you better buy what fits you and disregard the name . It turns out I got what I needed and am enjoying it still.

FYI , when I was trying to figure out the misfire on the black frame bike you can do this very quickly . I used an analog meter set on the highest scale of resistance and went from the HT lead to the frame and checked for continuity . This verified (infinite) an open circuit. I unscrewed the cap and checked it . These caps have resistors and have a different r value . Since it was open I knew I had found my problem. Installed new cap and tested again . Around 15k , so I knew everything else is good. The factory wire is a solid core and should be less than 10 ohm resistance . When you add the secondary value of the ign. coil to the test it will be more . It will be unusual for both sides to be messed up . Some service manuals give the primary / secondary r values. 99% of the time the secondary fails on a ignition coil aka transformer in a A.C. circuit. Remember this. If you are not sure about what you are doing or if you are not doing it correctly , go to the other cylinder and check your work . It is seldom both sides will be messed up .

Oh , this was a project . The original owner was an "artist" & I had to go through a lot to de-personalize this bike . It was worth it .

George Jones will be there !

After being in hibernation since 2006 , I got the red frame out and started riding it . The test ride didn't go well . I didn't realize the starter button was stuck and I got about 1 1/2mi. down the road with it running awful and died . Starter was HOT and battery was dead . A buddy stopped and had a jump box , I started it and made it home. Let it charge and took it to work the next two days. I still sputtered and ran awful at fixed throttle and rolling off throttle. I was explaining the symptoms to my guru when I realized what it was . Got my meter and checked the spark plug wire to ground resistance. OPEN . Went into the shop and installed a new plug cap , checked resistance and GOOD . Don't remember the # , somewhere around 5-6k. Installed both caps to keep from having one Champion and one NGK . I do (occasionally) have standards. Now it starts immediately and no misfires at all . Next week it becomes my daily rider. One more thing 34lbs. PSI is much better than 4/front and 11/rear in the tires. NOTE to self : check air pressure , I don't care how good they look . As mature as I have felt on the V-Strom I am meant to ride the V-11. P.S. My knees did bend enough to get my feet on the pegs. It has been 10+yrs. Now to get the fuel pump to work on the red frame and I will be ready to go ! It took me 7 days to find this thread or I would have posted much sooner. =

Hmmmm , if no one give you any help , I would Google or eBay for info .

The bike in the pics have CF fenders. Is yours CF or plastic ?

That is why it's funny