gstallons

Good . Were you doing something else to this bike too ?

Ahhh. type in drop box in the search area (upper right portion) and it will show a compilation of drawings that Weegie compiled. Print all these off and use / keep them for when you need them .

Maybe there is a diagram on this Forum Kiwi_Roy had posted: V11 Sport ECU Test Point Layout dated May 12 2010. It has all wiring to the ECU and it's purpose . If you can't locate it , I have it in my paper library , I can take a pic and text it to you .

I forgot to ask , how long has this been a no-start ? .I hope you have the wiring diagram for the bike. there are a few differences through the years. I have replaced ECMs on automobiles through the years and the ones I was sure were bad turned out to be good and the ones I was unsure of were the bad ones . Take your time testing everything to be sure of powers / grounds and all the inputs . Make sure nothing caused this failure. Since the fuel pump "on" is the first thing to be activated , I am going to say the ecu is at fault.

Lisle Tools 60630: White Relay Test Jumper - JEGS This relay test jumper should be in EVERYONE's tool bag / tool box !

I hope this works . click on the above link

spanner sockets | McMaster-Carr

I will post it in the a.m. Now , I buy the majority of tools from SnapOn so I am used to absurd prices BUT .

I can post this fact : $200+ and I don't think so I was going to find the diameter to verify the price.

I am working up an order on McMaster/Carr and they sell these sockets . I was going to get one for the future .

I suspect the ecu. W/the ecu harness disconnected , use the test light attached to B+ and test pin 24 and 23 to ground making sure the test light comes on . Then attach the test light to ground and check pin 26 for power w/ the key on . You want to test all powers and grounds before replacing the ecu . I use a Lisle 60630 relay test jumper to use on micro-relays. It speeds up this procedure ! Get one ,they are terrific

I sent you a PM w/my cell if it will help

The other (yellow/red ) wire on relay #5 goes tot pin 19 of the ECU and the ECU grounds the yellow/red wire to energize the relay. With the key on , disconnect the ECU connector and ground pin 19 to see if things "come on" .

Alright , now to test the portion of the relay that energizes the coil in the relay. One of the o.s. bottom terminals id grounded in the ECU (pin 19) and the other terminal is b+ supplied from relay # 4. Perform the same test to relay # 4 for b+ on the top pin and apply b+ to the second pin and see if it energizes relay # 5 . Relay # 4 is powered by F2 . 10a fuse.

The interview of Shelby Foote in this series . Ken found out he had met up w/the Major Leagues when he turned the camera on him !

I hear ya.

Do you remember the o.d. of the nut/socket ? How did you get interested in The War Between the States ?

Relay #5 is the relay that powers the fuel pump , ign, coils and fuel injectors . There are 5 terminals at the relay . You have two terminals and then three terminals . The two terminals have B+ and when the relay is energized the other terminal supplies powe to injectors, coils & fuel pump. Put a test light on the first terminal where the relay was plugged in , this should light up. If not check fuse #2 with your test light. It should light up on both sides . Try this and see if you have B+. If this works apply B+ to the second terminal to see if the pump powers up . Let us know what happens .

I just do it as a safety factor . ABSOLUTELY no problems !

maybe you should watch National Lampoon's Vacation before coming over here !

I'm sure you kept this opinion to yourself ! Calculate the most you think it's gonna cost and double it .

The starter relay mod (as pictured ) is THE mod to perform as it keeps the current off the micro relay and onto a conventional mini ISO relay to power the starter solenoid. IDK why these companies run the high current through light switches , starter solenoids ,etc. knowing this is a Mickey Mouse setup . I used a weatherproof mini ISO relay and connector to operate the starter solenoid .

IIRC , I got one at Auto Zone a while back and I thought it was a reasonable price .

According to my Waytek catalog this Picker relay has 5 pins w/30a n.o. (to feed the headlights) contact rating and 25a n.c. (to operate the starting motor) rating. Three terminals are 1/4 blades and two terminals are 3/16 wide. and should work . Temp operating range is -40c to 125c . Sounds good to me.

igor , this relay APPEARS to have only 4 terminals . You want to use a relay w/5 terminals because one of the relays (starter) powers the headlight relay when the starter is not activated . It is best to have all relays the same in case you are caught and need to swap relays around. I can't remember if the OMRON relay G8HE-1C7t-A-DC12 is still available or not ? Mine came from Digi-Key . Feb 2017. They are still in the bag they came in . Omron is the relay of choice here .