gstallons

Explain everything again . The bike will die while running ? Does the headlight come on when you turn the ign. switch on And does the fuel pump cycle for less than 4 seconds ? Does the engine crank when you try to engage the starter ? I'm not sure if the kickstand switch will kill the engine . I think it will when the bike is placed in gear w/the clutch lever is pulled . I can't remember ? My sidestand switch is bypassed so I can't try it on mine . Please explain ALL the symptoms so we can help you .

Do not ground either one of those wires. Doing so will blow a fuse to say the least. If you don't know , don't do it ! Is your sidestand switch still "modified" ? Y assume you are doing this near the oill cooler ? If so undo the jumper. Are you POSITIVE you are reading 7.5v on this (orange) wire ? This power comes from the ign. switch. The light blue wire goes to Relay 3 then also powers Relay 2 to turn on the headlight. Check V at F4 and see if you have 12v. there. If those #s are 7v and 12v , the problem is in the switch or at a connector . Let me know what you find.

Is that a genuine Brit telephone booth ?

Hmmm , at least they are consistent w/the spelling !

Oh NO ! That is why I could NOT post @#$$#! Cavett's name the other day ! I thought I was having keyboard problems ?

Mac , IDK what you have / have not done about this VII . I want you to understand you are buying (first) a project with many things to do to get this roadworthy . After you get this running , you will own a Italian motorcycle w/all it's personality . Mak a good decision and get this bike as cheap as possible . You don't want to buy a $5k motorcycle for $5k and put $1500 in to it. Good luck on your choice .

I tried to correct Mr Cavett's name but it would not let me

And you know Eric knew he was an unknown in that bar and enjoyed the moment . You see all of these self-inflated a$$ holes in public , on TV , etc. Then you see these really great people in person and in interviews on TV and the are humble and respectful . The @#$$#! Cavett interview of Jimi Hendrix comes to mind as the example of humility .

That story reminds me of : one time one of Jack Bruce's former bandmates was in a pub where there were some musicians playing live music somewhere . Said stranger after a while asked if he could play his guitar . The guitarist was a good man and handed it over . After some strumming and playing around he got serious . To the owners loud objection , he announced "be careful there , those strings cost me ___ quid " ! Eric took it easy after that admonishment .

That's one way of lookin' at it.

I give up.

Well , the wear is the reason for adjustments

With all due respect , when you find the perfect formula to use ambient temperature , engine temperature / valve clearance #s please post them . I "think" you are overthinking this adjustment.

Some manufacturers give a "hot" and a "cold" lash figure .

It is easy to look up a conversion table to verify what needs to be done. I had to. I have a Starrett electronic caliper to do measurement conversion this small . No problem on my socket sets , I'm on it ! With that being said , I'd go w/the clearance I mentioned above. And I have std. and metric feeler gauges . I remember the first time I saw .25 on a piston crown it took someone explaining , that is also 0.010". p.s. don't take everything literally. As you can see print can be deceiving .

First of all , if I am reading you correctly , you are adding a inch measurement= 0.02" to metric numbers= 0.1 mm. I "think" I set mine on 0.008" in. and 0.010"in. aka 0.20mm and 0.25mm. Noisy= yeah. I didn't buy a sewing machine and you didn't either .

Watching dash cam videos on YouTube makes me want to stay inside. I think it is terrible everywhere .

Welcome to the last MG forum you will belong to . Now , if no one responds in a day or two look on eBay to see what's selling .

Start off w/Phil's advice FIRST. no spark . You tested for spark at the spark plug ? Remove the spark plugs to make it easy to test . Plug the spark plugs into the coil wires and lay them onto the head so they will have good ground and crank the engine to look for spark. You can purchase a spark plug tester also and skip all of this work. IDK where the coils are mounted but you should have B+ (w/the key on) on one side of the coil terminals. The other side is signalled from the c/shaft sensor through the pcm. No B= on the coil means you will have to look at your wiring diagram to see where power comes from.

I have not seen (w/my own eyes) Ohlins forks to know if they have ID or serial #s to identify production or model of these forks . after everyone gets up , hopefully someone over here can provide input . Have you contacted Ohlins for help ?

A test light is the best tool to use . When I am checking for no-power on a circuit , I test EVERY fuse in that fuse block to see one that is not working. Yes , it never is bad to use the BEST consumable parts available . IDK what is happening with the parts quality in the States over the last 25 yrs. AZ and other stores sell trash parts. You have to find reputable stores and patronize them . AFA the video Phil posted ; boring , over the top and technical= yes. Important= yes . I watched this some time ago and it is necessary to know . Watch it a few times until it gets familiar . This kinda testing is familiar in a classroom environment . There is a reason for this "saturation" on a subject . I posted a while back where I posted having purchased a fuse kit that lights up when the fuse is open AKA blown or broken. Terrific if you are broke down at night . These things light up and there is no guessing ! Pricey......yeah ! Worth it .... yeah ! This last place I worked at had a fresh-outta-college KIA in purchasing and everything he purchased was from Amazon or eBay. All the bulbs we installed , half of them would burn out w/in seconds of installation . His response "you must not be putting them in correctly" ?

it is not a "one step" operation .

That looks pretty sharp ! I hope it serves you well. Did they recommend any maintenance on the seat leather ?

Have a friend move the fast idle "lever" at the bars and YOU watch what goes on at the r.h. throttle body . Look at all these linkages and see what needs to be done . There is nothing under the fuel tank for you to see or have any affect on the fast idle mechanism .

You need to print these diagrams (multiple) and study them . I have mine in a folder near where iI sit along with w/11x20 exploded wiring diagrams .