gstallons

From the comfort of my rat's nest , I found my insurance card ! 2001 (black frame) is ZGUKRAKR21M113066 2003 (red frame) is 2GUKRAKR63M115132

They're pretty d##n good !

IF the engine block is a perfect krinkle black , the engine case has been replaced.

I worked on a Ford P-up for hours after pulling the fuse , holding it up to the light and it looked PERFECT . Pushed it back into the fuse panel and wasted the afternoon searching for the problem . Came back w/a test light to find out I had no power on the other side of the fuse . Installed a new fuse and problem was cured. There are fuses w/LEDs to indicate a blown fuse . Get them ! They are lifesavers . Just remove the fuse cover and look for a light . When you are looking at a fuse panel w/30 fuses , it narrows things down fast .

My opinion of the purpose of these idle air bleed screws is ; to adjust the idle speed of the bike . You have set the base idle with the throttle plates/TPS . You go through each step and do not go backward , but forward .

The ultrasonic method is the only way to go !

Watch all the other videos in that block also . It will help to understand Hall Effect v regular sensors . Regular inductive sensors peoduce a sine wave & Hall Effect produce a square wave. Don't trust everything you see on these . Such as 500 ohms being less than 2point 5 zero zero ohms !

IDK what the clearance specs are , but this is VERY important .

From what I can see , if any of my bikes looked like that , I would prefer to "waller around" on the ground instead of a bike stand .

My red frame has the same combo as yours . My black frame has an external fuel pump. There's one thing for certain , nothin's for certain .

"maybe" ......

Come in if you can get in !

I have them into categories . Red frame / black frame , external / internal fuel pump. Then 2,000 ( or whatever the production #s are ) other categories .

Don't tattoo that on your body . It is subject to change . When you order parts , do a lot of "leg"work before doing anything . You do want to do this for your own benefit . The wiring diagram in the back of your owner's , have your wiring diagram enlarged and memorize everything !

Keep me posted . I'm in !

There are things better left alone

IIRC , the black frame is not too hard to grease all the fittings. The red frame , no. The front joint is impossible. As in , I gave up . And I have a Rube Goldberg grease tip.

I have a drawer full of disconnect tools for automotive use. The worst was a Ford with about 6 tongs / tines inside the fuel line connector . If it EVER went wrong you had a helluva time getting it off . I am sure the plastic elbow is very delicate . I would use shop air to get any junk out of the connector to aid in removal . Everything has a technique . It's learning that is tough .

Can you post a pic and part #s ?

IDK if there is a tool available for this connection . IFIRC , you push the hose in then push the collar back to the hose and move everything away from the fitting . You may have to twist the collar while pushing the fitting off the line. Once you master this , do it a few times and get familiar with the procedure and try to remember it.

It will or it won't . No tellin' . Also , I hope you are considering how it will look ?

I watched a video on the design and manufacture of the Spitfire a few nights ago and how important the wing deign was . I didn't realize how exaggerated it was until the video.

This is the town where The European Rider's hold their Rallye . I pay my money and miss EVERY year . It is a great place to get together . I hope to get to this one !

You never realized how this little item could make this much difference . From an H Farmall to a Japanese crotch rocket ! To the guy that designed/made this extender , what made you think of doing this ?

Mmmmm. I'm lost . Where does the Spitfire come into the equation ?