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Everything posted by gstallons
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At the yellow/black wire ? No , frequency only . You would get DC if this were a square wave (pulse width modulation) signal to the tach . IDT this was this the case w/this setup . Or , no I didn't check the alternator output voltage . I can check both of these if I need to .
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Whew . These bikes should be sold by serial number breaks , not model year designations .
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Who knows ? as w/MG , there is one thing for certain , there's nothing for certain! Looking at my Red frame and Black frame bikes , the red frame has 40mm unpainted forks and the black frame has 40mm painted forks. I have a 43mm painted fork out in the shop and it has the different fork cap/adjuster setup from the others. These measurements are taken on the lower portion of the fork leg. Take pictures and measurements before you do anything. p.s. buy a parts manual so you can be sure , amused , entertained and thoroughly confused.
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I checked my Greenie just while ago . At pin 3 (yellow/black stripe) I got 50hz at idle . At 3k I measured around 150hz. HTH . Sorry for the delay .
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Yep , trust me . I know after ordering all the stuff to reseal my forks . The gold anodized forks are of course Ohlins . The other ones are Marzocchi . Unpainted and painted . Early and late model . Look at the fork caps to be sure about the Marzocchi . The painted forks in the above picture are late model forks . There are no absolutes on this , so just go by pictures to match them up .
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Hmmmm , the pin 3 or pin 5 depending on which model bike you have is the tach signal wire . I will try to poke around my bike tomorrow to see what the output is at idle and 1500 RPM . I will hook up some contraption and see what I get .
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Moto Guzzi Enthusiast Royal Enfield Thread
gstallons replied to Joe's topic in Special place for banter and conversation
Janus is a good looking bike . The novelty would wear off or grow on you .I'm not sure which path it would take ? -
Make sure the fork caps on your bike are identical to the one shown in the pics on the advertised forks.
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There are 3 wires for you to be concerned with . The power wire , 12v , the ground wire and the tach signal wire . Check for a good 12v and ground with a test light . very important . You are checking the 12v to ground integrity. If these are good , The "way over" 12v has destroyed the tach .
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There are two different brands and two different sizes . Can you be specific ?
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Just about any Fluke meter has a Hz function . I'm sure any meter has it now . I'm partial to Fluke . If you're looking for AC on a wire , turn your meter to AC and check . If it is generating a square wave , you won't get a (I think) good reading.
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Ok, I've strayed.
gstallons replied to billgreenman1's topic in Special place for banter and conversation
I see a Royal Enfield thread in our future . My buddy worked for a company that (their branch) tested any & everything doing w/two wheels . He said the Enfield was a great bike . Build quality , looks , engine , everything. IDK who is in charge w/the bikes , but they are doing it right ! -
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Mmmmm . The fork seals are two per fork . One dust seal and one oil seal for one fork leg .
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Sittting at the counter Saturday , I realized "all men are equal (only) at a BBQ stand . You will see farm hands sitting next to Judges and they have one thing in common . a good sandwich !
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How do you "feel" you have half of something ?
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I've been there . I think ! Beautiful place .
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# 1 you got that right ! # 2 5-10s & an 8 on Saturday of nights has made me a dull boy ! # 3 SSR ?
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When you get ready to assemble the fender , use a good amount of anti-sieze on the screws going into the rubber mounted nuts. Those things used to be on all GM vehicles pre-1973 ( that year had the internal regulator ) had the external voltage regulator . This was used to rubber mount it to cut down on shock , vibration , etc. These were a monster to remove . You destroyed them and hard mounted the regulator to whatever it was originally mounted to . You can't do this on the fender . It would look terrible .
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On the brake maintenance : someone has a wooden block to move each piston . You want to do it right , extract each piston and clean the bore for each piston . I use brake assembly fluid on reassembly . After a lot of research , you want to use NEW (as in , removing the foil from the top of the bottle) DOT 4 fluid . Buy a small bottle so you can toss it after you are completely through . Flush , flush , flush all the DOT 3 from the system . after my little ride w/Docc & (I'm sorry I can't remember his name) one more , I found out about brake fluid boiling and using the front brakes first . Who was that anyway ?
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May need a new regulator ?
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If you can find a specialist , call them and talk to them . If they can give you a good sales pitch , have them do it .
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If there is a lowest mileage award , just make it The Gene Stallons 0 Mile Award .